Electronic mousetrap - what is it and how does it work (instructions for self-assembly + diagram)

If there are rodents in a residential building or other premises, it is necessary to take all possible measures to eliminate them.

After all, the damage caused by mice and rats is sometimes fatal. This includes the destruction of food supplies, damage to property, and infection through saliva and excrement with the so-called “mouse disease” - an extremely dangerous disease for humans.

For hundreds of years, humanity and rodents have lived together, much to the regret of the former. Over the long years of struggle, means and methods have become increasingly improved.

The best homemade mousetraps and how they are used

To combat rodents, a lot of drugs and devices are produced: poisons with an attractive odor, spring and electric mousetraps, ultrasonic repellers.
As a rule, purchasing these funds costs a pretty penny. A DIY mousetrap is practically free and does an excellent job of catching rodents. For people who are unable to kill an animal, such traps are the only way out: most of them lure a mouse into a trap without causing it the slightest harm. Let's figure out how to make a mousetrap at home simply and without much effort.

Antirats-190

The Antirats-190 electronic mousetrap guarantees 100% destruction of pests. Inside it there is a unique tunnel system, eliminating the possibility of the rodent getting back out. The Antirats-190 electric mousetrap is absolutely safe for people and pets, as it eliminates the possibility of penetration. The device can operate both from the mains and from batteries.

On a note! The device does not require additional settings or knowledge. It is very easy to use. You just need to place the mouse bait inside the device, then turn it on and install it in a place where mice may move.

[custom_ads_shortcode1]

Disposable traps

Disposable mousetraps will have to be reinstalled after each rodent caught. To make them, improvised materials (ropes, bowls, plastic bottles) and simple tools (scissors and an awl) are used.

1 option

The classic mousetrap is a slamming lid, it’s quick and easy to make. You need a small container: a 0.5-1 liter jar, a deep plate, a disposable plastic cup. You will also need a coin or a nut; the bait is tied to them on a short string. The coin is placed on the edge and the edge of the container rests on it. The mouse pulls the rope while climbing into the jar, and it falls, preventing the pest from escaping.

This elementary mousetrap from a jar can be improved: instead of a coin, you can cut out a rectangle about 2 cm wide from thick cardboard or plastic and sharpen it on one side to make it convenient to place the bait on it.

Option 2

If food spoiled by rodents is found on the table, a disposable bottle mousetrap is most convenient. To make it you will need a bottle of 1.5 liters, a rope about a meter long, an awl and strong scissors. We cut off the neck of the bottle at a distance of about 5 cm from the cork, pierce a hole at the top with an awl and tie a rope through it to the bottle. The second end of the rope needs to be secured to the table, for example, tied to the handle of a pan.

To catch a mouse in such a bottle, it is placed on the edge of the table so that the bottom with the bait hangs in the air. The mouse, having climbed inside, overhangs it, the entire structure falls down and hangs on the rope. All that remains is to drown the rodent or take it outside the house.

Option 3

The simplest mousetrap, but at the same time quite effective, is made from a plastic bottle as follows: using a stationery knife, you need to cut the bottle into 2 parts at the place where it begins to narrow.

Turn the neck over and insert it into the main part, the sections must be placed at the same level and secured with tape or glued together. Bait is placed at the bottom of the bottle, the neck is lubricated with any edible oil. The mouse, once inside, slides down and cannot get out.

The only difficulty is that this plastic bottle mousetrap must be positioned so that the mouse can easily reach the neck, for example, near the shelves. You can make paths for mice to make it easier for them to climb. Then the bottles will have to be weighed down by adding some stones or sand to the bottom.

Mousetrap made from a plastic bottle

This option is considered the simplest, since you only need a plastic bottle. It remains after drinking juice, mineral or purified water.

But it’s only suitable for us with a volume of 10 liters. The point is the size of the neck, which allows the mouse to climb into the inside of the bottle without obstacles.

How to create a bottle trap:

• Unrefined vegetable oil is poured inside until the entire surface of the bottle is completely covered;
• The neck of the bottle is cut off;
• The bottle is placed on a stack of books with an inclination of 40 degrees.

This creates a trap from which the mouse cannot escape.

Reusable traps

Making a reusable mousetrap is not much more complicated; the designs of most of them are elementary and do not require special skills. Such traps can be checked every few days, throwing away the caught rodents. True, they cannot be left for more than a week, otherwise the room will become saturated with the smell of decomposition.

The swing principle

The design of the first reusable mousetrap, which is easy to make yourself, is based on the principle of a swing. It will require any container with a volume of 5 liters or more with a wide neck: a bucket, a saucepan, plastic containers. A rigid wire, knitting needle or wooden twig is secured across the edge of the bucket using tape.

You also need a board several centimeters wide and slightly shorter than the diameter of the bucket. For example, a ruler or a rectangle cut from thick cardboard, plastic, or metal will do.

We place this board so that it rests on the knitting needle, one edge lies on the edge of the bucket, and the other with the bait placed on it is in the air. In order for the mouse to climb onto the board, a homemade mousetrap is installed on a stool at the edge of the table. You can make a ramp from a board and attach it to the trap.

To make the trap reusable, the balancing board must be attached to the spoke and positioned in such a way that it returns to its original state on its own.

Spinning drum

The basis of this trap is the same as the previous one: a bucket and a bridge leading to it. A rotating cylinder is used to drop the rodent into the container. To make it, you can take a small plastic bottle or tin can. A small hole is made in the bottom of the bottle, and then it is placed on a knitting needle. The knitting needle is placed on the bucket as an extension of the bridge and secured.

A bucket mousetrap will work for a long time if the bait is placed around the entire circumference of the bottle. You can spread it or attach it with a rubber band. The mouse, attracted by the smell, climbs onto the drum, it turns, and the rodent ends up in the bucket. If you do not plan to release the mouse outside the house, pour water into the bottom of the bucket so that it will choke.

Rules of application and safety measures

Electric rat traps are quite easy to use. To catch a rat you need:

1. Place bait in the device - for this there is a special feeder on the inside of the back wall of the device;
2. Connect the rat trap to the network or insert batteries into it - depending on the model;
3. Install the device where it can be easily reached by a rat or mouse attracted by the smell of the bait. It is advisable to choose a place to install the trap where pests are most often (where they leave their traces);
4. From time to time (but at least once a day) check the indicator signals in the rat trap. Each model has its own mode of operation of the indicator, described in detail in the instructions;
5. After catching a rat, you simply need to tilt the trap so that the animal falls out of it. If the corpse needs to be removed from the device by hand, the power in it is first turned off. In a model with a storage chamber, only the chamber itself is cleaned.

The Victor Rat Zapper Ultra is sold complete with a remote indicator that can be placed in an easily accessible, visible location. This is very convenient: the rat trap may be somewhere in the pantry behind a box of potatoes, and it will be difficult to look there regularly. It is enough to put the indicator on a shelf in the room and only check it. The rat catcher will only need to get it when the corresponding light comes on, indicating that the rodent has been captured.

Minced meat with onions, smoked sausage, scorched lard or bread lightly moistened with vegetable oil are good baits for rats.

Electric rat traps should only be used in areas where children and pets are not present. The exception is the Victor Multi Kill Electronic Mouse Trap, which is well protected and does not pose a danger to pets and humans.

Electric traps should also not be used outdoors. Here harmless and sometimes very useful animals - shrews, birds, hedgehogs, lizards and snakes - can climb into them and die. In such cases, the harm to the site will be greater than the benefit from destroying the pests with a trap.

Glue trap

When catching mice, you can also use special rodent glue. It is sold in hardware stores and supermarkets in the pest control section. According to the instructions, this glue is spread on cardboard, and bait is placed in the center. A mouse, even if it gets into it with one paw, is glued tightly. This is far from a humane mousetrap; the rodent in it dies long and painfully.

The disadvantage of this product is the ability of the glue to stick to curious pets and smear everything around. You can avoid this by building reusable homemade mousetraps. In a shoe box, a hole is made on the side for the rodent, under it inside the box there is a sheet of paper with glue applied, and in the depths there is a tasty-smelling bait. After that, all that remains is to replace the paper.

Options for replacing an electric rat trap with other types of traps

No matter how simple and convenient electric rat traps are, in many cases one or another of their shortcomings does not allow home owners to use them.

In such cases, more traditional means can be used with the same reliability:

• Conventional mechanical traps are much cheaper and about as simple and effective to use. When installed in a special bait house, they will not harm anyone. If it is not a problem for you to remove a rat with a broken spine or a crushed skull from a trap, then such devices can be used;
• Tunnel strangler traps are completely safe, but they work well mainly only for catching mice;
• Live traps - these devices are suitable for situations where there are pets or children living in the house, and you don’t want to risk their health. They are good if you do not want to kill a rat or mouse, but only plan to catch it, take it away from the house and release it;
• Rodent repellent glue and glue traps based on it are perhaps the most undesirable and inhumane means of fighting rats. Stuck rodents will die for a long time on the sticky surface, or you will have to finish them off yourself.

A good option (if used correctly and carefully) is poison for rats and mice. They are very inexpensive, effective, and if placed in bait houses, they are quite safe - neither children nor pets can get them.

If you have personal experience using electric rat traps, be sure to share the information by leaving your review at the bottom of this page.

The appearance of mice in the house is a problem that requires drastic measures. You need to get rid of rodents, because they spread dangerous infections (including parasitic ones) and spoil food. An effective way to deal with uninvited guests is an electric mousetrap, which eliminates animals using a high-voltage discharge.

Bait selection

World cinema has long convinced everyone that rodents love cheese more than anything else. In fact, catching a mouse on any dairy product is quite difficult. The most effective way to attract them to traps is to use:

• lard, especially smoked lard,
• smoked sausage,
• white bread croutons,
• unrefined sunflower oil,
• Sesame oil,
• roasted sunflower seeds and peanuts.

Bread soaked in sesame oil is most attractive to rodents.

Baits need to be changed periodically, because mice, sensing danger, stop reacting to the smell of the treat.

A mousetrap made from improvised means will not require much effort or financial expenditure, and the results from its use are often better than from industrial products. And in some cases there is nothing left to do but make a mousetrap with your own hands. It will take much less time than looking for a working store late at night or dragging yourself into town from your dacha. Having decided what materials are in the house, you can always find a suitable option from a huge selection of homemade traps.

Ready-made mousetraps from the store

Products in the form of a wooden plank and a striking element with a spring are not as effective against modern mice. Many people consider rodents to be very stupid. But when they check the mousetrap and see that the bait has been successfully consumed, they don’t understand how this happened.

Scientists have proven that mice have become significantly smarter. They anticipate danger and are able to avoid the impact of a special device.

Types of electric mousetraps

The action of destruction systems is based on a discharge of electric current, which kills a rodent caught in a mousetrap. The device is a plastic box. The bait is inside. The device may have mazes to disorient the rodent. When the device is ready for use, the green indicator lights up.

Electric traps differ from ultrasonic repellers in the effect they have on rodents. The first destroy the animals, the second expel them from the premises.

Device classification

Electronic mousetraps differ from each other in the following ways:

1. Location of electrical discharge. In some devices, the energized plates may be located at the bottom. The animal dies when it touches them with its paws. In others, the circuit closes when you touch the feeder.
2. Power source (batteries, electrical network 220 V).
3. Number of entrances, tunnels (from one to six).
4. Number of rodents caught. The device, designed for large populations, contains a storage container for collecting carcasses (up to 10 individuals). In small mousetraps, a chamber is installed for one individual.

Regardless of the power source, each rat trap is equipped with a starting capacitor to increase the strength of the electrical discharge.

The main advantages of such devices

One of the main advantages of an electronic rat trap is the “hygienic” nature of its use. This compares favorably with poisons, which have to be spread throughout the apartment (and then be afraid that neither the product itself nor the rat poisoned by it will be found by pets), as well as mechanical traps, which, when triggered, often leave dried blood stains on the floor.

In addition, electric exterminators are for the most part very effective: in practice, with their help it is often possible to get rid of even the most cautious rats (who are wise with experience and no longer touch the poison and bypass ordinary crush traps).

Other advantages of electric rat traps:

• The compactness of the device, the ability to install it in fairly secluded and hard-to-reach places;
• Humaneness (compared to some other types of devices) - the animal dies in a trap almost instantly, without suffering from pain. This makes electric rat traps significantly different, for example, from glue traps, in which a rat can die for several days;
• Ease of use - the trap does not need to be prepared for a long time, and even disposal of the animal’s corpse is very simple and takes less than a minute (you don’t even have to touch the animal’s corpse).

Meanwhile, with all the above advantages, the electric rat trap also has certain disadvantages...

How to make it yourself

You can make an electrical device against rodents yourself. Financial expenses in this case are minimal, and the efficiency is not inferior to purchased analogues.

Necessary materials

For a homemade electric rat trap, you need to prepare the constituent elements, namely:

• battery (12 Volt);
• aluminum or tin plates;
• capacitor (electric charge converter, 380 Volt);
• plywood sheet, wooden board (base).

You will need hardware and wires to connect electricity.

Step-by-step instruction

A homemade electric mousetrap can have different designs, but the operating principle is the same. Death occurs from a discharge of electricity.

How to make a rat trap from a battery:

• Metal plates are attached to the substrate with self-tapping screws (nails) (the distance between them is 1-2 cm).
• Wires are connected from the battery through the capacitor to the plates. To one (+), to the other (-).
• Bait is placed on the metal part of the trap.
• On the approach to the food, a tunnel is built that imitates a hole. You can make it from a plastic bottle. The structure is installed so that the rodent steps on two plates at the same time.

The body of the animal serves as a conductor of electric current. The plan for eliminating rodents is simple. By stepping on both electrodes at once, they close the circuit on themselves and die from the discharge within 2-3 seconds.

Additional Information! As bait, you need to use products with a pronounced aroma. Smoked lard and bread fried in unrefined sunflower oil will attract mice faster than cheese. Rats react to the smell of fresh meat and sausage.

Using a bucket as a mousetrap

Everyone in the house should have a not-so-needed bucket. It can be used to catch pesky rodents.

How to make:

• We use a metal or plastic bucket, a metal rod or a round version of a wooden stick;
• A rod is mounted in the upper part of the bucket. But before that, you should put a plastic bottle or glass jar on it;
• The point is for the container to spin freely on the rod as a result of minimal impact;
• Now the homemade product is installed near the place where mice are active;
• Bait is offered on the top of the container: seeds, a piece of lard, a walnut, crumbs of any baked goods;
• As a result, the mouse will climb onto the bait to eat the treat and will inevitably fall. She will be trapped;
• To make the catch successful, you should place the bottle next to the bucket. This will help increase the chances that the mouse will easily find the bait.

How to choose a ready-made model when purchasing?

To choose an effective means of eliminating mice, in the store you need to study the technical characteristics of the models presented and compare them with your needs.

Recommendations for choosing a mousetrap:

• Depending on the number of rodents, multi- or single-place devices are chosen.
• The plastic body of a good trap should not emit a strong chemical odor.
• If there is no electrical outlet in the room, you need to buy a device that runs on batteries or a battery.
• Safety in use. Equipment must be protected from contact with dangerous elements.
• Equal effectiveness from mice and rats.

Operating principle of electric rat traps

The operation of an electric rat trap is based on a simple principle: an animal, climbing into the rat trap and trying to pull the bait out of it, closes an electrical circuit on itself. A high voltage current passes through its body, which leads to almost instantaneous death of the animal.

In some types of traps, contacts are made on the animal's paws when it climbs into the rat trap. In other devices, the rat receives an electric shock when it touches a baited feeder. Theoretically, in the first case, the rat has a chance to escape, but there is no practical difference in efficiency between devices with different circuits: rats are equally reliably destroyed by traps of both types.

It is clear that for reliable destruction of the pest, the voltage on the electrodes of the device must be high enough. To do this, voltage converters are often used, which make it possible to convert low voltage from batteries into several thousand volts at the output. So, in some traps, a rat or mouse receives an electric shock with a voltage of up to 8000 V (although the voltage can be lower - the standard 220 V is also quite “enough” for a rat).

Due to voltage converters, some electric rat traps are autonomous, run on batteries or rechargeable batteries and do not require a connection to the network.

TOP 5 popular models

Electric traps for rats are modern devices that destroy rodents almost instantly, without a trace of blood. Animal carcasses can be disposed of in a waste container without contact.

Antirats-190

The rat trap retains its working properties at temperatures down to -30 C and high humidity (95%). The voltage is located inside the plastic box, so the device is safe to use. The design is of a tunnel type. There are 6 inlet holes on the side wall.

Size W*D*H (cm) - 13*22*11. Power sources: C batteries (4 pcs.), el. net.

Manufacturer: Russian company i4Technology. The company's products are reliable.

Victor

The trap is designed in the form of a tunnel, which protects against accidental electric shock when touching the inside. It is equipped with 2 tension plates.

Power source - AA batteries (4 pcs.). The charge is enough for 100 rodents.

Victor Multi Kill

The rat trap has 2 entrances and a storage container. There are 3 plates in the discharge compartment. Its feature is an automatic revolution after a discharge. The dead animal ends up in a chamber, the size of which allows you to collect up to 10 carcasses.

Recharging occurs automatically after each operation.

Power source - “C” batteries (4 pcs.). The kit is designed for 150 mice or 50 rats.

Electronic Mouse Trap

The Victor brand mousetrap has a cone grip technology that captures the animal. Electric discharge for 5 seconds. kills a rodent. The entrance imitates a hole, located near the wall, in the path of the mouse. Beveled tunnel partitions protect fingers from 2 tension plates.

Power source: 4 AA batteries.

The Victor brand is manufactured by the American company Woodstream Corp, which has experience in rodent control since 1898. The popularity of the products was brought by the use of innovations.

• Power cut off when the door is open.
• Use of safe materials.
• LED notification method.
• Reliability of shockers.
• The design of electronic equipment is designed so that the human hand does not touch dangerous parts.

The disadvantage is the high cost of traps (from 1500 rubles). The price depends on the model.

GH-190

An 8 kW electric discharge destroys the rodent. In offline mode it performs up to 40 discharges. Made from fireproof plastic. The top cover is removable, allowing for hygienic cleaning. The device is designed for 1 individual. After removing the animal’s body, the apparatus must be washed and dried.

The device must be used in a place inaccessible to children and pets.

Dimensions W*D*H (cm) - 13*21*11.

Power sources: from a 220V network, from 4 “C” batteries.

The manufacturer of the rat trap is Chinese.

Electric mousetraps are a humane way to kill rodents. The death of the animal occurs instantly, in contrast to mechanical methods of killing, where the animal dies a painful death: in a bucket of water, on an adhesive backing, clamped in a trap.

Note! When using an electrical apparatus, care must be taken. Install the device in accordance with the instructions.

The animal must be removed immediately after death, preventing decomposition.

Advantages and disadvantages of the device

Mechanical mousetraps may not catch the mouse. Or the caught animal may not die immediately and suffer. The electric trap is more humane - it instantly kills with electricity. If you poison pests, rodents can spread harmful substances throughout the house. Therefore, it is better to use an electronic mechanism. Compared to other methods of catching mice, an electronic mousetrap has a number of advantages:

1. Absolutely safe for people and pets. The electrical contacts are located inside the structure and cannot be accidentally touched. The entrance holes are made small so that only rodents can penetrate deep into them. Therefore, you should not be afraid that a cat or dog will stick its muzzle there.
2. The structure consists of passages and tunnels, so it will be difficult for the animal to get out. He will wander around the device until he closes the contacts with his paws and receives a discharge of electricity.
3. Does not use toxic substances and does not harm human health. Therefore, the device can be used near food storage.
4. It can operate both from a 220 V network and independently on batteries. Has low energy consumption in quiet mode. Energy consumption is only used to shock the mouse.
5. Rodents are not able to adapt to an electronic trap. Individuals caught in the trap do not survive, so they cannot warn their relatives about the danger. Therefore, mice do not associate the bait with a threat and they continue to fall into it.
6. The device is compact in size and does not take up much space. It can be installed in various hard-to-reach places. The presence of a light indicator signaling the capture of an animal eliminates the need to systematically open the camera and check its contents.
7. Suitable for catching rats and mice.

But even such a unique innovative device has some disadvantages:

1. Does not catch voles. The fact is that voles are very small in size and can get out of the maze by bypassing the metal contacts.
2. Higher cost than a mechanical mousetrap. Innovative traps for rodents cost from 2900 to 4000 rubles.

Progress does not stand still. More and more new methods of pest control are being developed all the time. The electric trap is the latest achievement of technology and has a number of advantages over archaic methods of rodent control.

Conclusion

Electric mousetraps are a technological invention for eliminating pests of the mouse family.

1. The principle of operation of traps is a high-voltage discharge of current, which leads to the death of rodents.
2. An electric rat trap is quite easy to make with your own hands. Basic electrical knowledge will come in handy.
3. You need to choose a ready-made device based on your needs, safety and reliability of the trap.
4. There are options for rat traps from various companies on the market. The TOP 5 includes the best models from well-known manufacturers.

The electronics in the traps allow you to monitor readiness for operation, dead rodents in the container, and charge level.

Victor Multi Kill

Victor Multi Kill is an electric mousetrap that differs in its internal design. The compact house has a staircase entrance. It consists of 3 plates on which the treat is placed.

In an attempt to get food, the mouse climbs the stairs. So she ends up in a chamber where she is struck by an electric shock. This is indicated by a constantly lit green indicator.

After which the bottom of the chamber is turned over, and the dead rodent ends up in a special container. This storage cavity is quite voluminous - it can accommodate up to a dozen mice. The filled container is indicated by a yellow indicator light. The device automatically recharges, becoming ready to meet a new “guest”.

[custom_ads_shortcode3]

Inhumane approach to rodent extermination

Poisons and chemicals intended to poison mice have a number of disadvantages:

• addiction of individuals to poison;
• refusal of bait;
• poisoning of pets.

And the most significant drawback is the death of the rodent from poisoning in a place inaccessible to humans, followed by the unpleasant smell of decomposition for a fairly long period of time.

A humane solution to the rodent problem

Gentle ways to get rid of creatures are ultrasonic repellers and a contactless trap-container, which, if caught, remains alive and well.

More bloodthirsty methods are glue fishing, chemical poisoning and mechanical traps.

A modern invention - an electronic mousetrap - is the most humane, so to speak, method of exterminating pests, since it leads to the instant destruction of an individual without suffering. You can also make a humane mousetrap with your own hands from available materials!

Operating principle of an electronic mousetrap

A modern electronic mousetrap is a specialized trap for small rodents that releases a strong electric current when the animal gets inside. Unlike ultrasonic repellers, traps destroy mice, which helps to completely clean the room of toothy pests.

The operating principle of an electronic mousetrap is extremely simple: a rodent, lured by the aroma of a treat, climbs inside the trap and receives an instantly fatal discharge of electric current with a power of 8000 V.

In addition, the design of the mousetrap is designed in such a way that the mouse is attracted to the rounded shape of the entrance to the trap, this reminds the animal of gnawed passages. And together with the fragrant bait, these factors do not give the rodent a chance to pass by.

What types of mousetraps are there?

For better visibility, here is a brief description of the main types of mousetraps used to control rodents:

• Mousetrap on a spring. The simplest and cheapest option. The spring is tensioned and the bait is placed nearby. The mouse, pulling the bait, activates the spring, and it slams the animal;
• Traps. The principle of operation is the same as that of a spring mousetrap, there is a slight difference in design;
• Cage mousetraps. A gentle method in which the animal remains unharmed and can be released;
• Glue. This is precisely one of the most cruel methods of extermination. The animal, stuck to the trap, dies a long and painful death from hunger and dehydration;
• Homemade devices. Our people are rich in wisdom and worldly tricks. Many craftsmen are able to invent something of their own to combat rodents, but the principles of operation of such devices are the same as those purchased;
• Electronic mousetraps. Modern traps, which are discussed in this article.

GH-190

The operating principle of the GH-190 electric mousetrap is to attract a rodent using bait. Its distinctive feature is the presence of six holes through which a mouse or rat enters the chamber. The unique design of the device does not allow the animal to get back out.

You can make an electric trap with your own hands. A diagram of such an invention is easy to find on the Internet.

I lived in a wooden house then. The rats have won! Either I didn’t have a cat at that time, or he couldn’t cope with so many gray bandits - I don’t remember now. It was necessary to do something urgently. “Store” mousetraps did not help. The rat is a cunning animal! For her to circle this very mousetrap (or trap) around her tail is like punching a hole in a bag of bread on the table with her teeth - it’s a piece of cake! And after finding the valve, Madame Idea came: I came up with the idea of ​​​​using this valve to make an electric mousetrap. Well, or rat traps, whichever you prefer... I decided to make the top and bottom of the trap from edged “four” boards to use as load-bearing parts for the entire structure, the door and side walls were made of plexiglass (easy to handle and quite strong) , and the rear retractable wall is made of ordinary glass (for transparency). In the board of the lower base, a little further from the supposed middle of the rattrap, I cut a shallow (less than 1 cm) transverse groove about 3 cm wide. Then I covered the “working space” (floor) of the future mousetrap (and still - mousetraps or rattraps?) fibreboard. I also cut a plate from fiberboard to the size of the groove taken out in the floor. Without further ado, I placed two bare wires in the groove, crosswise, barely touching each other. Then I closed the groove with the wires with the prepared plate, gluing it to the hinges. I made the hinges myself, simply twisting them from strips cut from a tin can. Instead of an axis for the loops, I used thin straight steel wire. The entire structure was made in such a way that the “floor” in the trap seemed smooth, but as soon as the animal stepped on the movable plate, it moved down and the wires were short-circuited. I brought both wires, now no longer exposed, to the top board. On the upper base, closer to the end of the door, I attached my find - the core of the solenoid valve - with a homemade bracket. I note that I made both bases - the top and the bottom - longer than the side walls almost exactly to the height of the door, which I attached with the top edge on a small hanger to the underside of the top base. Thus, when the door was fully open and in a horizontal position, its edge almost coincided with the end of the top board. At the bottom edge of the door I strengthened the wire bracket so that its semicircle, when the door is open, protrudes above the surface of the upper base. When the door is raised, the bracket is practically pressed against the end of the top board. I think the ever-wise reader understood the essence of the idea long ago. I attached a wire to the valve stem like a long flexible “pin”, which was inserted into the semicircle of the bracket and kept the door raised. The rat enters the rat trap, steps on the movable plate, the contacts close, the electromagnet is triggered, the rod retracts, pulls the “pin” with it, it jumps out of the bracket, releasing the door, the door falls under its own weight and slams shut. All! The beast has been caught! In order for the door to close securely when it slams, I attached a wire bent at an angle to the surface to the “floor” in front of the entrance to the trap: when the door falls, the edge slides freely along the wire, it bends, but then, when the door is closed, it straightens again, rests against door without allowing it to open. At the end of the upper base (bottom), I installed break contacts so that my “system” would not work after the door slams shut: the door goes down, the contacts open, and the current no longer flows. Even if the rat rushes around inside the trap and steps on the “tricky” plate in the floor again and again, the valve no longer works. I connected all the contacts and the valve in series, so that the design “adequately” responded to the closing and opening processes. The connection to the network was made as an ordinary electrical cord with an ordinary plug: I “alert” the trap (opened the door all the way and secured it with a “pin”), put the bait behind the movable plate, plugged the cord into the socket - and you can wait for the results of hunting a rodent. I attached a door handle to the top of the rat trap to make it easier to hold the “device” with one hand. The “running tests of the device” were very successful. I just finished the product and placed it in the corner, between the wall and the refrigerator (both a secluded place and an outlet nearby!). Before I had time to properly prepare myself to wait for the capture of the animal, my uncle showed up to me, already quite cheerful, with “half a liter of tea.” The reason was not subject to discussion: a grandson was born! Well, what to do... I put a snack on the table. And just as we were about to, as they say, “make things worse,” there was a sharp bang behind the refrigerator. "Here you go! - I thought. - False alarm!" But no! The first fresh specimen was sitting in the activated rat trap! Well-fed! It’s done: my idea has come to life, the device works! Well, my uncle and I also “sprinkled” this... This is the electric mousetrap I made, dear readers. May you not have to do this. And if rats live in your house, then let them be decorative animals - kind and affectionate friends, and not gray, evil, cunning, insidious and dangerous animals! And may your ideas always come true. Good luck to you! Tags: ideaselectrical appliancesrathouse

Sources:

• dezplan.ru
• victorpest.ru
• apest.ru
• shkolazhizni.ru

DIY electronic mousetrap - diagram, photo, video

Another option for a homemade trap is an electrocution trap. Again, the electronic mousetrap scheme is not classified, it can be used. However, it should be remembered that independent work with electric current can lead to disastrous results. You should follow safety precautions, have basic specialized knowledge and take such experiments seriously.

Remember, your actions can harm yourself and others!

Task: make an unusual electric mousetrap;

Operating principle: a mouse walks and falls into the sensor’s field of action and is electrocuted. After a few seconds, the circuit’s automatic shutdown should work, and until you remove the mouse from the sensor’s field of action, the circuit will not work again.

The converter is built on UC3845, the power transistor is IRF3205, and a 47-volt protective diode is used instead of a snubber circuit (this must be installed, otherwise the circuit may die).

The converter transformer with a gap of about 0.3-0.4mm is wound on a core from some low-power power supply, the primary contains 5 turns of 0.8mm wire, the secondary 300 turns of 0.1mm PETV-2 wire. The voltage from the secondary winding through 3 UF4007 diodes (necessarily ultra-fast 1 kV each), can be HER108, is rectified and charges capacitor C4, then through a 1400V spark gap it goes to the primary transformer which contains 25 turns of 0.8mm wire. The secondary voltage of the transformer is the high-voltage output; it contains 800 turns of 0.16mm PETV wire (preferably PETV-2).

The high voltage transformer is wound on a ferrite core. Insulation was carried out with ordinary A4 files in 3 layers. There are 5 layers between the secondary and primary. Be sure to fill the transformer with epoxy resin, then pump out the air to squeeze out air bubbles, repeat the pumping procedure several times, that is, pump out/gas air.

Above in the diagram we see a simple diagram of a motion sensor. In the normal state, the relay is turned off and +12V goes to the 6800uF capacitor. When the IR light on the photodiode is blocked, the relay is activated and the 6800uF capacitor is discharged into the 7th leg (power supply) of the microcircuit and while it is being discharged, the shocker works, it works for about 3-5 seconds, after which it is discharged and the circuit turns off.

This is such a simple design.

When idle, the circuit consumes about 23 mA, and when the shocker is running, about 5.5-6 Amperes.

We see on the board there are contacts for the explosive output and for 2 diodes, the mouse will first pass through the explosive contacts, then go to a piece of bait, the motion sensor will work and the mouse will literally fry.

I have everything assembled in a canopy, but under the article there will be a board in lay format, designed specifically for the article.

The circuit is powered from a voltage of 12 volts, but it can be from 10-11 volts and higher, 15 volts is also not a problem for it, so you can safely power it from lead batteries (for example, from a machine battery).

Photo and IR diodes can be taken from the TV remote control and the receiver in the same TV.

The transistor in the motion sensor is NPN, in principle you can use any one, up to KT315, but I haven’t tried it, so I won’t say so. The relay is a regular 12 volt one.

Video: Review of electronic mousetrap (45000v)

This diagram is taken here

If you don’t want to do it yourself, you can buy a ready-made device; below, see a brief overview of the most popular models of electronic mousetraps.

Review of Russian manufacturers of electronic mousetraps: victor, sititek antirat, Ecosniper, Yastreb

For those who are far from amateur, a wide selection of patented electronic traps is offered. Let's take the most common ones as an example:

Electronic mousetrap Victor

Powered by batteries, one set is enough to destroy up to a hundred individuals. A special indicator will show that the mouse has been caught and will also indicate that the battery is low;

Video review of the Victor electronic mousetrap

Electronic mousetrap Sititek Antirats

Works both from batteries and from a 220V network. The patented shape of the tunnels prevents a mouse that has climbed inside the trap from getting out;

Video review of the electronic mousetrap Sititek Antirats

Electronic mousetrap Ecosniper

Rodent exterminator Yastreb PP (electric mouse trap)

A universal, compact and reliable device, when a rodent gets into the box, a discharge of 8000-12000 V passes through it - the rodent dies instantly, we recommend this device - ideal price-quality ratio

Disadvantages of Electronic Rat Traps

Like any electrical device, electronic rat traps can pose a hazard to pets and humans if not handled correctly. However, in fairness, it must be said that many modern models of electric rat traps powered by batteries, even with a gross violation of safety regulations during operation (for example, if you stick your fingers inside), are not capable of causing serious harm to human health.

The most dangerous devices to use are those made by yourself and powered by a 220 V mains voltage. Often, the circuits of such homemade products do not provide any protection - at best, a fuse that will not save you from a life-threatening electric shock.

In general, simple mechanical rat traps with a powerful spring can be considered much more dangerous to use than modern battery-powered electric rat traps. A trap can easily break a child’s finger or a cat’s paw, while electronic rat and mouse exterminators are designed in such a way that you cannot reach the electrodes with your fingers (or paw).

And even in the worst case, although the discharge will be very unpleasant for a person, it will not be fatal (a person is about 100 times larger than a rat, and the discharge power of a battery-powered device is simply not enough to cause serious harm).

Such traps also have other disadvantages:

• High cost - prices for electronic shredders start from 2,500 rubles and reach 10,000 rubles for the most modern models. For that kind of money you can buy several dozen ordinary mousetraps, or several tunnel traps that are safe for pets and are not inferior in efficiency to electric traps;
• Dependency on power supply. If the trap runs on batteries, they will have to be replaced periodically. If the device requires connection to an outlet, then it cannot be used where there is no network;
• The need to regularly check and release traps. If this is not done, then within a few days the rat will begin to decompose right in the device.

And yet, the main disadvantages of electric rat traps are their high cost and the danger to people and pets that is greatly exaggerated in the minds of the average person. This is what limits the popularity of these devices among the people.

“When I was at my sister’s, I saw how they were fighting rats there. They have special electric rat traps for this. The rat climbs inside to get some bread, and then electrocutes it. While we were staying for a week, they caught three rats in their cellar. An excellent remedy, no brains scatter to the sides, no blood, I just took this trap, knocked it over, the rat fell into the bag - and that’s all ... "

Trap from a jar with cut paper at the neck

For this trap, you only need a glass jar with a capacity of 3 liters and a special bait. A mousetrap from a jar will function flawlessly precisely when using a certain filler - husks (husks from sunflower seeds).

We suggest you read: How to get wasps out of the roof

TIP: for their best attractiveness, it is recommended to sprinkle them with fragrant sunflower oil.

In a practical sense, you won't have to do anything. It is necessary to fill the jar with a layer of 3-5 cm of husks and place a board on the neck, along which the rodent can quickly get to the source of the smell.

Once inside the jar, the mouse can no longer get out. And it’s the husk that helps keep it there!

Mice jump quite high. But for a good jump, a powerful push from a solid base is required. The seed husk layer is very loose and mobile. You can’t just push off from it, you can’t even stand on it. The rodent will fall through at the slightest movement.

This design has its advantages:

1. The husk does not spoil;
2. Mice don't eat it;
3. The product does not require cocking and can function without maintenance for some time (the duration depends on the abundance of rodents);
4. Performance is maintained even at sub-zero temperatures.

A jar trap is convenient to use in the cellar.

This DIY mouse trap is made by analogy with the previous one. To allow mice to climb to the top of the jar, a “ramp” is installed, but in this case the bait is placed inside the jar, the neck of which is covered with paper. In order for the paper on the neck of the jar to become a real trap for rodents, it is carefully cut (for example, with a razor) crosswise.

The disadvantage of such a simple trap is that it is not very effective. Mice somehow sense a trick and are afraid of the cut paper.

This homemade mousetrap from a jar is simple and can also be made from a saucepan, and if desired, the coin can be replaced with a large button or a metal washer. A coin (button, washer) serves as support for the raised edge of the jar. A strong thread with a hook at the end is glued or tied to the support.

A rod is installed inside the container (you can use wire, a twig, etc.), through which the thread is thrown. The bait is put on the hook. Attracted by the aroma, the mouse pulls the hook with the bait, after which the thread tightens and pulls the support out from under the can. For maximum effectiveness, the bait should be placed at a distance of 2-4 cm from the surface. The disadvantage of the trap is that it requires reloading. That is, having “covered” one mouse, the can ceases to be effective.

In a simpler version, the bait can be glued to the wall of the jar, then when you try to get to it, the mouse will shake the jar, which will lead to the support falling.

In order to remove a caught rodent, it is convenient to slip a sheet of cardboard under the triggered can.