Polystyrene foam hive, advantages and disadvantages

As soon as the last snow melted, my father called me to come to the village on a day off to remove the hives that had been wintering in the basement. Entering the room, I saw that 5 families did not survive the winter, having soiled their homes with “diarrhea.” The father explained that the weather changed sharply between frosts and warm temperatures, which affected the health of families. Since I am developing components for thermal insulation, the idea arose of how to apply this knowledge to solve the problem. How to choose the appropriate material?

In the article I will consider some issues of using polyurethane foam (hereinafter referred to as PU foam) in the manufacture of hives:

  • Does PPU insulation affect the quality of honey?
  • Advantages and disadvantages of PPU?
  • What is better for bees: PPU or PPS?

Keeping bees

In Roger Delon's hives, bee colonies develop faster, for example, the development of one building can occur in a week.
If you delay the installation of the second building, the bees will begin to swarm, since development will slow down. Therefore, you need to inspect the hives once a week, at least. Thus, such a simple design can provoke swarming. If this type of bee housing is chosen, then it is important for the beekeeper to master techniques to counter this phenomenon

Bees live in winter in only 2 buildings. In the spring, the bottom is replaced and the feed is checked and, if necessary, frames with beebread and honey are placed in the lower housing. The queen usually starts laying eggs in the upper housing because it is warmer there. Later, the queen will move down when all the combs are sown. The bodies should be swapped, and then the queen will continue to sow the upper one, and the lower one will be freed from sowing.

Make hives from PPU polyurethane foam

Before making the enclosures yourself, you need to calculate the required amount of material and only then install the main structures, then perform additional elements

It is important to follow the technological recommendations and markings on the drawings in order to do everything correctly during installation and cutting.

Dimensions and drawings of a hive made of polyurethane foam

The overall dimensions of the PPU or PPS hive are the following parameters:

  • In the top view, each body is a square with a side of 53 cm.
  • The thickness of the main section is 155 mm.
  • The thickness of the side walls should be maintained at 40 mm.
  • As for the ventilation holes, they are made along the bottom of the wooden frame.
  • It is advisable to take into account that the bottom should be welded into a wooden frame.

Assembly of the PPU hive

The assembly process consists of the following steps:

The drawing is transferred to cardboard or thick paper and each element is cut out separately. Apply it to a sheet of synthetic material and cut it. Each cut piece must be sanded to ensure that there are no burrs or uneven parts.

This is important, since subsequently the parts must fit snugly against each other. Rebates are installed along the back and front walls, which will allow you to install the frame. The finished elements are glued together. For reinforcement, they are fixed with self-tapping screws. Recesses for handles are cut out along the outer surface along the side walls. True, they can be performed in any other convenient way. It is important to fix it with straps after gluing.

This will allow the structure to remain in the specified dimensions and not move apart. Don’t forget to make a tray that will slide out for easy cleaning. After this, the belts are removed. The ventilation holes are covered with a metal mesh. The folds must be secured with steel angles. After this, the outer surface is painted with water-based facade paint.

Foam hives

The most budget-friendly material for making bee houses is considered to be polystyrene foam . He has a lot of positive qualities.

  1. Foam hives are very light (no more than 14 kg).
  2. The material is perfectly protected from environmental influences and maintains the optimal temperature inside the house all year round.
  3. Polystyrene foam has a long service life, as it does not rot at all.

Advantages of wintering bees in a barn or omshanik

The disadvantage of a hive made of foam plastic is that it must be painted in order to protect the house from sunlight, under the influence of which the material tends to collapse.

There are many conflicting opinions among beekeepers regarding the use of new materials for making bee houses; some categorically reject innovations in beekeeping, while others, on the contrary, try to try something new and find positive aspects in it. In any case, there are as many opinions as there are people.

Advantages of polystyrene foam hives

Expanded polystyrene was first used back in the 60s of the last century. The magazine “Beekeeping” wrote about this in 1988 No. 10. Author from the city of Kamensk-Uralsky, Sverdlovsk region V.P. Kharlov reports that back in 1966, beekeeper from the Baltic States A. Päeva kept bees in hives that weigh 3 kg. There are many publications about this, I think that, referring to this one source, we can say that foam plastic has been used for making hives for about half a century.

Expanded polystyrene - a cozy home for bees

Beehives made of polystyrene foam are light and at the same time durable, which cannot but please beekeepers. The hive is also good for bees - it is warm, quiet and clean. Warm in winter, do not overheat in summer. All cases are absolutely identical and 100% interchangeable. Unlike wooden ones, they do not have allowances of several millimeters.

Beehives made of polystyrene foam do not warp, do not absorb moisture, and do not crack. They have no knots, kinks or chips.

If we clearly formulate the requirements for manufacturing, then, first of all, they must be durable and comfortable, both for the bees and for the beekeeper. Beehives made of polystyrene foam meet these requirements. It is pleasant to note that in Russia they have begun manufacturing from a high-strength material - penoplex.

The design of such hives is collapsible and lightweight. Bees in such “houses” are protected from cold and wind. Polystyrene is not subject to rotting. A guarantee of a stable microclimate in the bees' nest is the low thermal conductivity and high moisture resistance of a polystyrene hive.

Considering that the small weight and all the parts are interchangeable, the beekeeper is provided with simplicity and convenience of working with them, as well as the use of all kinds of beekeeping methods. The whiteness of the amazingly smooth walls of the buildings is also pleasing to the eye. There is no need to use insulating pillows and canvases.

Hives made of polystyrene foam are good in hot climates and with abundant honey flow. There the entrance can be kept open to its full width so that fresh air gets into every street. For cold zones, it is necessary to provide for the production of bottoms with adjustable taphole barriers. Nowadays, it is not suitable to cut the tapholes with cotton wool, rags or homemade blocks of wood. It’s labor-intensive, and the birds pull out the cotton wool and rags.

Spring in the apiary

Polystyrene foam hives are especially good in the spring. In them, compared to wooden ones, bees develop better. The fact is that, despite the considerable thickness of the walls, they transmit sunlight. Thanks to this and the low thermal conductivity of the walls and ceiling, bees can easily maintain the required temperature for the development of the brood.

The main advantage of expanded polystyrene is its very low thermal conductivity coefficient. According to beekeeper N. N. Nakhaev from the Zaporozhye region of Ukraine, bees spend half as much energy to maintain the optimal temperature in a hive nest made of polystyrene foam as in a wooden hive of the same volume. This is a very important experience. After all, a bee colony spends half of the food consumed per year to maintain the required temperature in the nest. Reducing heat losses in a cozy home leads to a reduction in energy and feed costs, and this in turn leads to an increase in the productivity of the apiary.

Advantages of polyurethane foam for hives

  • retain heat: the thermal conductivity coefficient of polyurethane foam is 0.024 W/m•°C. For example, in linden, from which wooden hives are made, this figure is 6 times higher (0.15 W/m•°C)
  • wintering is better: it was noted that families that winter in polyurethane hives develop better, eat less food, and therefore spend less energy;
  • sound insulation;
  • does not rot, expand, dry out or be exposed to moisture;
  • rats and mice do not chew polyurethane foam;
  • easy to wash, dry and disinfect;
  • Since the components of polyurethane foam for hives are cast on molds, the dimensions are maintained the same, making it easy to assemble and disassemble without preliminary adjustment.
  • light weight: assembled three-hull hives weigh 15 kg, and wooden hives are 2 times heavier;
  • environmental friendliness of the material;
  • durability: by creating a hive with a density of 100 kg/m3, you get a solid structure that will last at least 25 years;
  • mobility: with a minimum investment of time and money, they obtain housing in the apiary, at home and in the forest.

Features of multi-hull structures

The technology of keeping bees in hives with several buildings is easy and economical in terms of time and effort. In addition, the structure is easy to move from one place to another.

Each compartment contains about 10 frames measuring 435x230 mm. The minimum number of boxes is 4 pcs. The design is used both in stationary and nomadic apiaries.

In appearance, a multi-body hive resembles a column with a characteristic protrusion at the entrance. To equip it, it is necessary to prepare detailed drawings and diagrams, and then begin construction of the following parts:

  1. Box The optimal wall width is 35 mm or more, and the taphole diameter is 25 mm. It is made in each building and closed with a retractable strip. For comfortable movement of the hives, handles are placed on the side parts. The internal size of the finished box is 375x450x340 mm.
  2. Bottom. It is made removable with a sloping shield made of 3 boards. To ensure free space during the main harvest, beekeepers remove the liner on the lower entrance.
  3. Roof. To simplify the transportation of hives, the roof is made horizontal from boards 24 mm wide.
  4. Liner. In most cases it is located on top of the bee house, but sometimes it is installed as a partition between the boxes.
  5. Ceiling. Created from 5 boards with 2 stripes.
  6. Ventilation grille. For its manufacture, a strapping with a metal mesh is used. The diameter of the cells must exceed the size of the bees so that they can freely crawl through them. The ventilation grille is located in the roof, body or in the folds of the roof liner.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantages of improved hives with several tiers include the following points:

  1. It is much easier to work with the structure; the beekeeper spends less time and effort on caring for the apiary.
  2. To clean the hive from deadness, it is enough to remove the removable bottom.
  3. It is convenient to prepare food for the winter. To renew food supplies, you need to remove the section of slots with honey and move it to the appropriate box.
  4. For pumping, you do not have to disassemble the entire nest, since insects concentrate supplies in the upper body.

However, in addition to the advantages, this system of keeping bees also has disadvantages:

  1. The structure can be damaged during transportation if it does not have strong fasteners between the compartments.
  2. The use of cabinet products is justified only if there is an abundant food supply or for industrial breeding of insects.
  3. As the bee colony grows, it is advisable to use pavilion housing for bees.
  4. In the absence of proper care, the family begins to swarm. This problem is especially common in the northern regions.
  5. The weight of the finished house with bees can reach 30 kg, and the height – up to 150 cm. Therefore, lifting and moving the hive yourself will require a lot of effort.

Features of hives Nizhny Novgorod

A special feature of a modern bee house is that the Nizhny Novgorod hive is made of polyurethane foam. The model surpassed the Finnish BiBox in its performance, as well as the Polish designs of Tomasz Lyson. The hive was developed by Nizhny Novgorod craftsmen. This is where the name came from.

Nizhny Novgorod is designed like a traditional vertical beehive. Depending on the dimensions, the case can accommodate 6, 10 or 12 frames of the Dadanovskaya (435x300 mm) or Rutovskaya (435x230 mm) model. Six-frame hives have appeared since 2016. In addition to the stationary Dadanov and Rutkov frames, Nizhny Novgorod cases can be used with half-frames measuring 435x145 mm. This design is called a store or extension.

Important! Nizhny Novgorod comes for sale in the form of a structure made of solid cast hulls. The hive is sold in two versions: painted and unpainted.

Nizhny Novgorod hives are cast in special matrices that give the product the desired shape. The ends of the cases and magazines are equipped with a connecting lock like folds. The connection is loose and has a small horizontal play of about 1 mm, which makes it easier to separate the elements. The bottom of the hive is covered with a steel mesh. To insulate it, a polycarbonate liner is provided. The roof is equipped with ventilation holes. The intensity of air exchange is regulated by plugs.

At the top of Nizhny Novgorod there are no entrances. The shelf is replaced with thick PET film. The canvas completely covers the honeycombs, without leaving the slightest gap for ventilation. Nizhegorodets is equipped with a ceiling feeder. The internal space for frames has been expanded by 50 mm. There are recesses on the outside of the cases that act as handles. The corners of the hives have technical gaps, making it easier to separate the bodies by prying them with a chisel.

Multi-hull hives - secrets of keeping bees

Keeping bees in multi-hull hives is carried out according to the same basic principles as working with other bee houses. The beekeeper's task is to grow strong bee colonies capable of ensuring good honey production.

To store honey in this design, new housings are required, installed on top of the nest. You can also use up to three magazine extensions (three bodies and the same number of magazines).

We talked about the structure of a multi-body hive, its dimensions, drawings in a separate article: Multi-body hives - appearance, design

Extension

The first expansion of the nest in a multi-body hive is carried out after filling the upper body with brood. Below there are almost no young animals ready to emerge at this time.

Expansion is carried out by replacing the housings - the lower one is installed on top, and the upper one goes down.

The recommended period is from early to mid-May. This work requires warm and sunny weather to avoid chilling the brood in the lower section of the house.

A successful manipulation gives the “queen” bee a place to lay eggs - she willingly moves up. It is noticeably warmer here and there are empty honeycombs.

And in order to prevent the awakening of the swarm instinct, the bees in the upper building are given several frames with artificial foundation. They feed and raise the young, while simultaneously building fresh honeycombs. As you know, the queen loves newly built dry land. Insects on such a frame grow large and strong.

By mid-May the hive looks like this:

Second stage of expansion

In approximately two weeks, the third housing should be installed. This is the second stage of expansion. It is carried out after the entire second body is filled with brood frames and the young animals emerge in the lower section of the hive. At this moment the house becomes crowded.

Recommended dates are the first ten days of June.

The body elements are moved and supplemented as follows:

  1. Already installed housings are swapped again - the upper section goes down, and the lower section rises up.
  2. At the same time, a third building is placed between the two already inhabited sections of the structure.
  3. In the third body, mainly foundation is installed. Two low-copper covering frames are also required.

The bee house by June 6-10 looks like this:

At the bottom there is open, younger brood. Next comes the foundation, since during this period of the year the bees build the honeycombs well. And in a bee farm, the stock of them for each hive should be at least 40 pieces! There will be printed brood at the top. This expansion method is called nest breaking. It is used to stimulate the building instinct. Preoccupied with the rupture, the insects stretch the honeycombs in literally five to ten days.

Third stage of expansion

The development of bees in multi-hull hives occurs quite rapidly. Two weeks after the second expansion, the bee houses will need another new building. By mid-June the hive looks like this:

The lower section containing mature (printed) brood is installed third. In its place is a new building (the fourth since the beginning of the spring expansion), completely filled with foundation. Above the printed brood there is a section with dry food and honey. And under it, on the “second floor,” unsealed brood grows.

The “queen” is limited by a dividing grid in the two lower buildings. This method, along with the installation of foundation exactly in front of the lower entrance gap, is an effective anti-swarm technique. It also helps to quickly increase the strength of the bee colony.

At the same time, fresh honey quickly accumulates in the two upper sections of the bee house, because the first half of June is a period of rapid flowering of wild and garden plants.

Fourth stage of expansion

After another two weeks, another rearrangement of buildings is undertaken. Recommended deadlines are before the beginning of July. You can focus on the beginning of sunflower flowering.

This is what the hive looks like after the next stage of expansion:

The printed brood, together with the third section, rises above the dividing grid. Instead, second from the bottom, a new casing with foundation is placed.

The presence of foundation in a bee house plays the same role as in the spring - it distracts insects from swarming, mobilizes them for construction, and the “queen” for laying fresh eggs. After installing the fifth body, the queen continues to work in the two lower sections. This serves to limit the clutch, but at the same time does not prevent the family from maintaining strength. All sections of the hive located above the dividing grid will be completely filled with fresh honey.

Beehives PPU and Beekeeping

The questions are of the same type and most often from novice beekeepers, and not so much about hives, but about keeping bees in hives in general. Therefore, I decided to write the answers in the form of an opinion, and it turned out to be a whole article.

It is not the hive that produces honey, but the skillful application of good methods of caring for bees; the hive is also a consumable material.

To understand what PPU evidence is, you need to know the history of hives in general, starting from the side decks, the first Prokopovich hive, and its various modifications, the Abbot Varre hive, modern dadans and beds, industrial hives and so on. By the way, Varre hives, like non-rebated hives and polyurethane foam hives - at first the bodies are simply twisted a little to the right to the left, and only then the whole bodies are lifted.

PPU hives are intended for the maintenance and development of bee colonies and the production of marketable honey and beekeeping products. They have proven themselves to be warm, comfortable, interchangeable, the bee winters well, uses feed economically, rapid spring development and increased honey production!

Polyurethane foam is a new generation material that is not susceptible to rotting or mold, and has high thermal insulation. Polyurethane foam itself is a neutral material; it has an advantage over wood; neither fungi, bugs, nor any other parasites live in it; it is a closed structure.

In theory, no matter what kind of hive, with any hive you need to know how to use it according to the seasons, how to maintain them, and what additional equipment is needed when working with this or that hive, how they are made and from what. And what types of hives are used, for what direction in beekeeping.

The PU foam hive is warm, lightweight and easy to wear. And because it is warm, the bees consume less food to heat the “CLUB” both in winter and summer. In winter it warms itself, and in summer it warms its brood. Accordingly, less bees will be busy with internal work in the hive, and they will fly more for nectar and pollen.

The queen will accordingly sow more brood and the family will grow much faster, the family will become larger, it will gain strength faster, and at the moment the bribe will accordingly collect more honey.

They often ask how to use them - I immediately say “gently and carefully”, as with bees in general. As with other hives in general, no matter what the evidence is, it cannot be thrown or thrown away.

Any evidence is placed in the shade of a tree or a shadow is created artificially; if this is not possible, then to prevent the temperature in the hive from rising, an additional building is placed. A “beard on the fly” has appeared, which means that’s it, they don’t have time to ventilate the hive, and another two days and they will go into a swarm.

That is, these are such simple truths that it would seem that all beekeepers should know, however, conversations and conversations, it’s not this way or it’s not that way.

No, they are light, and the wind rolls them around and breaks easily. Some people praise, some criticize. They even say that stories are generated by manufacturers of wooden hives about these same PU foam hives. And at the same time, it’s all a matter of habit; if you adapt, you can find its pros and cons in any hive. This will be an eternal debate about which hive is better, whether someone is comfortable beekeeping on boards or decks. And you don’t even need frames, and the wax and honey will be ecological, if, of course, the honey supply in the area is clean. Just like in the Warre hive. And by the way, Varre hives, like non-rebated hives and polyurethane foam hives - at first the bodies are simply twisted a little to the right to the left, and only then the whole bodies are lifted.

Or what is the shelf life of hives? Well, this is even funny. Everyone knows that it depends on the beekeeper himself and his attitude. If this is the case, then at least buy a new hive every season. Or, “I’ve had wooden hives for 10 years, and the polyurethane foam fell apart after two seasons.” Or, “wood is the best material.” This is because there are still a lot of trees, but where there are no trees, they look for everything that they can find and can only use.

A good beekeeper's hives last for 20 or 30 years, and this is the guarantee of the beekeeper himself and his careful and good attitude and good operation, they will last longer.

Or, “how beautiful” - while they are new and young, then everyone is beautiful, including people. And if you wipe it, putty it, change it, fix it, paint it - repair it and put it away until the next replanting or season.

Make a restoration and any hive will be like new.

Economics and competition issues often intersect on a global scale. To understand beekeeping in a small apiary, you can take all types of hives, and even make an apidom.

But if you already work and live only from bees, then you already need knowledge and professional experience in working with one or another type of hive, since each has its own characteristics. I recommend watching the film “More Than Honey” and films about beekeeping in general. Naturally, the hives in a large apiary should be interchangeable. And what is done in small apiaries even up to 30-50 hives, already after a hundred hives, many things to do are no longer practical and ineffective and labor-intensive.

The direction of beekeeping is also often simply not understood or mixed together. Honey or the honey direction is one thing. Layering is different. Mother breeding is the third. Collecting pollen is another matter. Pergu. Propolis. Royal jelly. Drone hemogenate. Bee venom. And even after death!!! BEES!!! benefit people - dead bees are also used as medicine!!!! There are beekeepers who even breed moths for medicine. Or bee colonies are used only to stretch wax onto sushi. And all these directions are all different things.

And even “pollination by bees” is also a separate type of trend in beekeeping. Pollination should generally be one separate article, because if they don’t know that some crops are being treated with some herbicides, pesticides, and their toxic component exceeds not only tens, but hundreds or a thousand times, then honey , collected from these crops cannot be consumed at all. Since it is a poison, and those who suffer from allergies will immediately feel that there is something wrong with honey, or some honey can be eaten, but some cannot. Even healthy people can blush, and people with allergies can develop a rash, itching, and other symptoms.

Moreover, all this is then deposited in the foundation and the larvae die, the effect of netted brood appears. Place this frame in another family, where you know for sure that the queen is good and you will see that she will also have gaps in the brood. A wax analysis will show everything if you do it.

Therefore, in beekeeping, the honey base or its food component plays the first and most important role. And if you want you to have healthy bees and pure honey, then you yourself must plant various honey plants within a radius of two to three kilometers: herbs, seedlings, trees. Just plant the grass Ivan-chai on at least a hectare, it also produces honey, especially in good weather with periodic rains, and as they say, you will have both honey and tea! Make any fences from hedges, rose hips, acacia, raspberries and other fruit and berry bushes and trees; you can also dig trenches with an excavator for various plantings.

Just from year to year, every spring and autumn, plant and replant shrubs and trees, multiply the pollen and nectar base of your area. Plant and replant all the ravines, all the outskirts, all wastelands, and even if they later turn into wild plants, it will still be better than nothing at all.

Or sometimes they say that bees are evil and sting badly. If you don't touch them, then they won't touch you either. If there are few honey plants, the bees become angry. And if they are hungry or their supplies are taken away from them, or their home is destroyed, then a natural reaction arises to protect the family and their home. It would be interesting to see you hungry or what will you do when your house is robbed?

! and a very important point - the sting of even one bee in some places on the head or neck can be fatal for some people! in other places, even in people with strong immune systems - 50 stings can also be fatal. Therefore, study this issue yourself, collect all the instructions, reminders and other methods of safety and behavior when working with bees!

Therefore, the bees need to be sensed, if they are hungry or sick, if there is no bribe, they need to be fed or treated a little bit, just so that the water is always fresh in some accustomed or convenient place for them. So that they are not disturbed by wasps and other pests.

How to disinfect and wash beehives? If you have a lot of hives, don’t be surprised if they wash them with Karcher and putty and paint them like a car, with putty and a spray gun. And if earlier they simply covered it with clay or the same ash, now they simply mix sawdust with PVA glue and repair any hive, not to mention liquid nails and various sealants.

If you remember about cleaning and washing, how it was the old fashioned way - steaming in a bathhouse and washing and cleaning with ash. You can wash with laundry soap, soda, vinegar, citric acid, or spray or wipe with hydrogen peroxide, all in diluted form and proportions.

Wooden hives can be lightly burned with a torch, also a kind of temperature disinfection. Just place it in the sun in a ventilated place.

Or just go through it with sandpaper, a grinder, an angle grinder with an attachment, whatever you find and how it turns out. Paint it with the simplest and most common primer for wood and metal, add color for color, and finally find recipes for eco-paints. Nowadays we don’t have any kind of paints, rubber-based, acrylic-based, for waterproofing, any kind of spray guns, if only we had the hands and the desire.

And even sunflower oil and alcohol, if there is a lot of propolis and you didn’t know what to do with it, so as not to constantly clean it off.

You can also write a little about propolis; this is also a separate direction in beekeeping. Clean and scrape only on yourself and very carefully.

And there are two points here, either you bring the bee colony and the hive to a state where it is all covered in propolis, or there won’t be enough propolis even on the frames and even on a rag canvas; if there is any, it will barely be in such a small amount quantity.

Again, you must understand why you need propolis or, as they say, for what purposes, therapeutic and preventive or commercial.

If you need it for tinctures, then use special mesh collections, which then, after keeping in the refrigerator, can be easily cleaned of propolis. If you need it for a bathhouse, for sales, then you already select materials and fabrics on which the bees will lay and polish it, but here you will already need to understand the readiness and frequency of replacing this fabric.

Well, I’ll probably write about pollen, beebread and propolis, and the line between them. As soon as there is enough pollen and bee bread in the hive, propolis will begin to appear. And if you don’t understand and feel this line, then this is where all sorts of conversations and nonsense begin about the hives being bad, or something else with the bees, or the weather being bad, hot or cold. Anything, but not this level of knowledge and ability to use the gifts of bees and their bee products.

And if you understand this point, then you will have an excess of this propolis, or there will not be enough of it at all, even for the winter both the frames and the hive will always be clean.

The only thing you need to understand is the purpose of beebread pollen - it is food for larvae, for brood, for young flightless bees, it is a kind of emergency reserves of emergency food for the winter, for the spring for future generations of bees.

And if it is removed without understanding this, then the bee colony will be doomed to death.

If you install pollen collectors, then less pollen and beebread will be collected within the frames; in a season you can collect about 500 grams from one hive. At the end of July, stop collecting so that the bees have time to replenish their supplies for the winter.

Right within the framework, they most often take it away for mead or honey kvass, the remains of last year’s harvest, as soon as a new bribe begins.

Those who use this have frames, and their hives are always clean, and if there is propolis, it is for show.

And those who don’t know this, talk all sorts of nonsense about good or bad hives, or deliberately generate rumors and provocations.

Honey bee frames are needed by bees in winter and spring, when there is no food, during the flightless and winter periods of their life. To prepare the “Kandy or Honey Fed” feed for the spring, those who don’t have them or don’t stock them are made from sugar with various additives of pollen, wormwood, pine needles, garlic, pepper, and other ingredients separately. No boiling water or boiling - water up to 40 degrees and stir, you can use a drill with an attachment, dosage and always only fresh preparation. You can also find recipes for honey nourishment and their substitutes on your own, but it is better not to bring it to this point, but to leave supplies or feed the family in the fall according to their strength, taking into account until the next honey harvest.

Usually honey beebreads keep two frames in the hive, one on each side of the bee colony in the hive. And as soon as the honey plants begin to harvest abundantly in the spring and summer, the old frames can be removed, leaving only one frame for the brood. And the flying bees will already take care of the new collection for supplies for the next season. And they collect this for themselves! What you take away must be without damage to the bee colony itself! And what you put away for storage in an airtight container, still periodically inspect it so that there are no moths and other living creatures and parasites of freeloaders of honey and bee bread.

Mead is more labor-intensive and consumable than just honey kvass. You can find all sorts of recipes on the Internet and find them yourself. But honey kvass is easy to make and does not require any additional costs - a flask of honey kvass comes out of one frame. And this is about thirty and a half containers of kvass, even if it costs 150 rubles, it turns out to be even more profitable than just honey. And everyone will have joy and pleasure, both old and young, everyone will drink honey kvass with pleasure. You will do advertising once or twice, then you will only do it based on requests. And even here we can say, as it is said ambiguously, it is one thing to take water from a spring, from a tap or from a well, or to collect water from rainwater, or from a river. This means that it would seem just water, but for some it matters, and for others it does not, but with bees, unfortunately, any action and phenomenon can be very significant. For example, after rain there is more honey, since nectar begins to be released and the bees willingly collect and carry it; if there is no rain, honey collection is weak and they need water. There are many subtleties.

Often there are discussions about nothing, confusing those who do not understand or understand pollen, bee bread, and propolis.

PPU hives and bees should be treated like any other hives, logs, and boards in general. Each of them has its own methods and techniques of maintenance, as well as beekeeping. Sometimes some little things or subtleties play a very big role in the whole.

There are now a lot of videos on the Internet where polyurethane foam hives are very actively used for breeding and breeding queens - everyone sees that they are good for development.

Wintering usually takes place for most beekeepers in Omshanik winter huts in three rows and without pillows, just on some canvas. With this arrangement, the bees form a “CLUB” at the bottom, and gradually rise upward over the winter. And in the spring, the bottoms or the entire hive are replaced and food and honey-bread frames are placed from stocks and insulated for a new round of development of the bee colony.

And then you will come to the conclusion that any hive is just like clothes for the season. What we wear in winter, we don’t wear in summer. So it is here, in the summer there are some hives, in the winter there are others.

Or just like cars and cars - you just need to drive or you need to transport something, you choose for what and for what purposes you need it, so hives have their own different purposes.

If the hives are the same, then they have different equipment in different periods of development and seasons, all the same, something changes in the inventory and composition of the contents as a whole.

It doesn’t seem to change on the outside, but on the inside it either expands, or contracts, or is insulated, or the types of materials and even the contents of the frames change, just frames, frames with foundation, or frames with sushi, or sushi, but with syrup , or sushi, but with brood (open or closed)

Both these and other processes are very important for the development of the bee colony.

Well, “PUF components are present in food containers, biscuit trays or containers. If the bee didn't like it, it would either fly away or die. Only this does not happen, and honey analysis does not show harmful substances. And the fact that honey yield is 30% higher, development and wintering are better kept silent about this.”

I wish you all success and good luck!!!

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DIY design

Buying a beehive is not a problem today. It can be ordered or purchased at any beekeeping store. In addition, such hives can be ordered by a person who knows how to work with wood. It’s even more economical to make the design yourself. You don't need much for this:

Schemes for standard frame sizes in such a hive are already given in sufficient quantities. They are not difficult to find. If you are going to make a design with a non-standard number of frames or want to use frames of a different size, then you should create a drawing yourself. Having made all the measurements, they make blanks from wooden planks and boards

It is important that the wood is dry, strong and even. Have enough screws, brackets and fasteners for assembly. The created blanks according to the drawings are carefully and tightly assembled into a structure. It is advisable to cover the lid with a galvanized sheet, and also attach handles, curtains, landing boards and other small items. Don't forget to paint the hive. To do this, they are coated with drying oil and painted on top. If you install the hive-beds on any elevation, then make sure that the stand stands firmly and is not very high.

Seasonal work

The normal lifestyle of insects in an apiary requires constant participation and control from the beekeeper. Care does not stop either in winter or in summer. Here are the methods and seasonal work experienced beekeepers use:

  • In early spring, check the bottom. This way you can control the temperature and how well the family is developing.
  • Inspect the settlement for the presence of parasites. If, for example, varroa mites or any other mites are found, then measures must be taken to destroy them.
  • If the hive is clean, then preventive antiparasitic measures are carried out.
  • To help expand and strengthen the insect family, it is necessary to rearrange the internal sections and frames.
  • In the summer, during intensive honey harvesting, you will have to add an additional section, building the house in height. This is to provide additional frames for the bees to fill with honey.
  • If this is not done, then the opportunity to collect a larger number of different types of apiproducts will be missed. And the chances for a full supply of honey for the bee colony for the winter are reduced. This manipulation will allow for complete pumping of honey.
  • When the last harvest is carried out, this usually happens no later than mid-August, the depleted combs can be placed in the upper part of the nest. Here they are aged until approximately September. After this, they will need to be stored in a suitable room.

Impact on honey quality

Polyurethane foam itself is an environmentally friendly material. Therefore, it is safe not only for bee colonies, but also for humans, from the point of view of its possible effect on honey.

Numerous studies have shown that polyurethane foam does not emit any foreign chemical elements around itself that can pollute the air or beekeeping products.

But one main feature must be taken into account - low-quality polyurethane foam can emit a specific unpleasant odor. Bees, due to the fact that they are very sensitive to any odors, can react very negatively to such a design.

Therefore, before buying polyurethane foam hives, you need to carefully smell the inside of the products, as the smell accumulates there. If the human sense of smell detects the slightest odors, such products should be discarded. It is necessary to choose those that are truly made of high-quality material.

Also, honey itself and other bee products are prone to the accumulation of foreign odors. Therefore, even if the bees accept such a house, in the future the honey may acquire a subtle smell that is formed inside such a synthetic product.

The use of high-quality polyurethane blanks eliminates these negative aspects.

Disadvantages of hives made of polyurethane foam

  • PUF is by nature sensitive to sunlight. This problem is easily solved by painting. You can choose water-based paint, alkyd, nitro-enamel, etc. German professor Karl Frisch, having studied the color vision of bees, found that they perceive only white, yellow and blue colors;
  • Also use metallized coatings such as silver or aluminum foil. They are also useful for bees, as they shield the Earth's electric field;
  • Vapor permeability will force developers to take care of additional ventilation of the hive;

How to make a beehive from PPS with your own hands

To make a beehive from polystyrene foam with your own hands, you will need drawings and polyurethane foam boards. For bee houses, a material with a thickness of 50 mm is chosen. The higher the density of the slab, the better the sound insulation and the lower the thermal conductivity.

Penoplex or polystyrene foam is suitable for building a hive. The structure of expanded polystyrene resembles a foam sponge. And penoplex consists of small balls.

It is more convenient to assemble a foam plastic structure with your own hands according to the drawings. This will allow you to correctly calculate the amount of material and economically cut out all the elements.

Preparation of tools and materials

For foam hives, you need to purchase material. The standard size of the slabs is 1.2 m by 0.6 meters. To fix the cut parts you need:

  • glue;
  • liquid Nails;
  • 70 cm self-tapping screws.

To prevent the folds from breaking from the inside, they are reinforced with metal corners. First, the dimensions of the parts are drawn on whatman paper. They are then transferred to slabs. To cut the material you will need:

  • meter ruler or tape measure;
  • felt-tip pen;
  • knife;
  • fine-grained sandpaper.

Additionally, the beekeeper will need a fine-mesh metal mesh. It is used to close holes intended for ventilation.

Dimensions

The easiest way is to make a 6-frame hive from polyurethane foam. Experienced beekeepers recommend using Dadanov’s scheme for assembly. If desired, you can make a sun lounger. But a common design is for 10 frames measuring 375 by 450 mm.

For experienced beekeepers, drawings for 16 frames measuring 300 by 435 mm are suitable. This hive provides:

  • nesting section 690 by 540 and 320 mm;
  • half-frame magazine 690 by 540 and 165;
  • cover and bottom 690 by 540 by 80.

These parameters are considered optimal. Moreover, domestic manufacturers produce compact modular houses for insects using similar parameters.

Drawings of polystyrene foam hives

The dimensions of the hive directly depend on its design. You can make a multi-body lounger according to Dadan. To do this, prepare the elements:

  • cover 535 by 610 mm;
  • strapping under the lid. The front and back are cut 610 m, the sides 535;
  • the floor is cut 600 by 375 mm;
  • ventilation holes intended for the floor are 200 by 300;
  • the rear trim piece is cut 375 mm in length, 130 mm in height and 50 mm in thickness.

In addition, you will need to make side parts 650 mm long and 130 mm high.

Build process

Making beehives from polystyrene foam is carried out as follows:

  • drawings are applied to paper, all elements are cut out and transferred to the slab;
  • the sheet is cut according to the markings transferred from the patterns;
  • the cut parts are polished;
  • folds for installing frames are mounted on the parts of the back and front walls;
  • finished structural elements are glued together. To strengthen the joints, self-tapping screws are inserted;
  • From the outside of the box, recesses are cut along the handle.

The finished box is secured with straps. The belts are not removed until the glue has completely hardened. The cracks are filled with polyurethane foam.

The final stage of work

After two days the glue will completely harden. Then the belts are removed. Ventilation holes are covered with metal mesh. On the inside, the folds are fixed with steel corners. then the hives are painted with façade paint.

Polystyrene foam hive and bee migration

When creating hives from expanded polystyrene, Russian manufacturers used the skills and experience of over thirty years of operating such hives in professional conditions, where the regional climate is similar to the weather conditions of our country. These are America, Canada, Sweden, as well as Belgium and Finland. It is these countries that are supporters of mobile beekeeping.

Undoubtedly, a polystyrene foam hive and a mobile apiary are two interrelated concepts. The houses are very light, and the beekeeper can easily deliver them closer to the bribe site. Even when the beekeeper works alone, he is quite capable of servicing a polystyrene foam hive.

As a disadvantage during transportation, except for belts, you can’t fasten it with anything else. And when moving, you have to press down the roofs with bricks so that they are not blown away by the wind and the hive is stable.

Using the bottom

The use of the bottom is very rational. On the one hand, the removable option allows:

  • Promptly clean up all fallen elements formed during the life of insects.
  • Carry out additional antiparasitic treatment without much effort and disassembling the entire structure.

This is how the hygienic function of such a design is achieved.

On the other hand, the specific bottom can be removed in the hot season and only a mesh element can be left at the bottom of the structure. This allows you to achieve a high level of aeration and cooling of the inside of the house by providing fresh air. It is this state, when ventilation is enhanced, that allows the bees to concentrate on extracting honey, rather than clustering along the front wall of the house.

With minimal disruption to the rhythm of insect life, you can perform all the necessary manipulations that a beekeeper must carry out throughout the year to care for his apiary.

Does PPU insulation affect the quality of honey?

Polyurethane foam has been known since the 60s of the last century. It is obtained by mixing two components of polyol and polyisocyanate. Each of them individually is harmful to the human body, but interacting with each other they form a new substance - polyurethane, which is safe and neutral in relation to health and food products. Let me give you an example from life: sodium in its pure form is an extremely dangerous material, and chlorine is a toxic gas that, if it gets into the lungs, causes burns to the lung tissue and suffocation. And the result of the interaction of sodium and chlorine is table salt, which we eat every day. In defense of harmlessness, I will add that polyurethane has long been used in medicine. Thus, studies on the implantation of polymers into the human body for plastic purposes have shown the applicability and harmlessness of polyurethane materials. And the use of polyurethane foam for insulating hives does not affect the quality of honey and the life of bees.

The components of the Himtrust company are certified by sanitary and epidemiological regulatory authorities, confirming their safety for living organisms.

What types of hives are there?

Since ancient times, humanity has used only natural materials for such purposes - wood, straw, clay, cork, stone. Often, an apiary was formed from a cut-out hollow or log, which bees chose in natural conditions.

The frame versions of the hive known to us appeared only in the 19th century. But the main material for their creation remained wood. It has its pros and cons, which are difficult to compete with. But production does not stand still and over time, substances such as expanded polystyrene (EPS) and polyurethane foam (PPU) appear. They are actively used in beekeeping in countries such as Sweden, France, Germany, Poland, Denmark.

Russian manufacturers are not lagging behind and are creating their own analogues of similar structures, which are called “Nizhegorodets”. They are made on. The quality is not inferior to European products; the material itself and the hives undergo a thorough check by the sanitary and epidemiological service, which issues a safety report.

From polyurethane foam, using a ready-made mold, beehives for bees are made in a wide variety of variations and sizes - 10 and 12 frames, six frames, Dadan and Ruta housings. Each beekeeper can choose one that is more suitable for the needs of the apiary.

1.1Beehive bed area of ​​application

The beehive is the most ancient, and therefore it is the most common type of hive. 20 years ago, every beekeeper worked with beehives at least once in his practice. It is believed that the sunbed hive is a good type of hive for a novice beekeeper who loves bees and wants to learn as much as possible about them and learn how to obtain high honey yields.

The sunbed hive is extremely effective in amateur stationary apiaries; nomadic beekeepers are not very fond of sunbed hives for their heaviness, but they note that when using beds with flat roofs, they can be loaded onto a two-story platform, so one platform becomes twice as large during transportation. more than hives of other designs.

The beehive is indispensable in queen-breeding and batch apiaries, and in apiaries specializing in the production of royal jelly.

The hive lounger is designed to contain bees of any breed that are found in Russia; the hive lounger is especially suitable for bees of the Caucasian breed, which are not very good at mastering extensions and magazines, but feel good in beehives.

1.2 Advantages of a beehive

The volume of the hive is sufficient for the development of a large colony strength, and for obtaining a large amount of marketable honey.

  • A 24-frame hive allows you to easily place two bee colonies over the winter through a partition, and in a hive you can organize the wintering of the main bee colony and 1-2 layers or nuclei with spare queens, separating them from the main family with a partition. The main family and the cuttings or nuclei will mutually warm each other and will overwinter well.
  • The sunbed hive allows, when caring for bees to prevent swarming, to organize layering in one hive and carry out other anti-swarm measures, while in riser hives either another hive or buildings are needed.
  • In the summer, by partitioning a 24-frame hive with plywood partitions, one hive can contain 12 cores with spare mats or 6 four-frame layers.
  • A well-made beehive is very warm, so in many apiaries beekeepers simply spend the winter in the wild.
  • There are no problems with expanding the nest; if in the case of a stand-up hive with the installation of second buildings or magazine extensions, certain tricks are required to force the bees to master them, then in sunbed hives it is much easier to expand the nest.
  • In beehives, bees pull foundation very well.

1.3 Disadvantages of the beehive

Among the disadvantages of the sun lounger hive, the following should be noted.

  • As a rule, the hive bed is very heavy, so they prefer to use it in stationary apiaries. It should be noted that many beekeepers get around this drawback by using new materials (PPS, polyurethane foam instead of wood), and by the fact that the transportation of the hive is carried out by two people.
  • It is impossible to carry out work with bodies in a hive; frame work with bees is required.
  • The queen moves freely throughout the hive and therefore the brood can be smeared throughout all the frames. However, this drawback is easily eliminated when using a Hahnemann grid, when the nest is partitioned with a grid and the queen works only in one part of the hive, and the second part of the hive is used for honey collection or when using a Hahnemann grid and placing honey supers.

Praise from manufacturers in advertising texts

The main thing is for manufacturers and sellers to show that their polystyrene foam products are convenient for both bees and beekeepers. They're trying so hard.

About the lightness of polystyrene foam

Modern bee houses of this type have quite a few advantages, such as ease of maintenance, long service life, and reliability during transportation to the place where honey plants bloom. Amazing stability is achieved when multi-hull staging is used.

They may break during transportation and are unstable. You have to carry piles of bricks. I know of cases where the bottom of a hive breaks during loading and unloading operations. Beehives made of polystyrene foam require modifications to strengthen their rigidity. After all, they are very fragile.

No rotting or dampness

If you are interested in information about what beehives made of polystyrene foam are, their price, quality, properties, then know that bee houses made of this material are not susceptible to rotting and dampness, and do not have any foreign odor.

Another advantage is that hives made of polystyrene foam prevent the development of foulbrood, varroatosis, and other bee diseases.

Moths also avoid such hives. Regardless of the weather, the temperature inside the case is optimal; in winter they can be left outdoors without additional shelter. The beekeeper comes to inspect the apiary farm and pump out honey. There is practically no need to think about diseases and problems during the cold season.

The cost is moderate and fully justifies itself. In addition, it should be added that in such an environment there is no chance for the development of pathogenic microflora.

Water flows down the walls, making it damp in winter, and dampness is an environment for bee diseases to occur.

Lightweight material - easy to carry for the beekeeper

The body with honey is quite light, so the beekeeper moves it without outside help. Reliability and stability of hives for any region, regardless of climate. Precipitation in the form of rain and sleet with wind has absolutely no effect. All these properties indicate that there is no doubt: hives made of polystyrene foam, their price and quality will not cause any complaints from any beekeeper.

And the quality is not ideal and the price is higher than for a wooden hive.

Rodents will not get inside

For bees, polystyrene hives are extremely convenient due to the entrance into which worker bees enter, fully loaded with nectar or pollen, without disturbing other inhabitants of the house. At the same time, rodents and other pests cannot enter the hive through this entrance. In winter, when the frost reaches minus fifty, there is no need to insulate hives made of polystyrene foam.

The entrances are unregulated, which, I think, leads to bee theft and disruption of the microclimate in cold weather. For rodents, praise from advertisers is an empty phrase. We should not brag, but construct strong, adjustable entrance barriers.

Reviews from beekeepers about polystyrene

As it turns out, choosing the material from which the hive is made is not easy. Wood or “foam” – opinions are diametrically opposed. From the mass of reviews about, I give only a small part for a clear example:

  • When separating the bodies from each other with an ordinary chisel, the “foam” breaks;
  • When cleaning the casings from propolis, grains of polystyrene come off, which means there is no way to obtain a healing beekeeping product;
  • I don’t clean propolis, the shells separate, if only with difficulty, then without breakage, but if in cold weather, then you need to try;
  • In general, not everything is as good as the manufacturers promise; in fact, there are many shortcomings, but I’m not going to switch back to wooden ones;
  • As I understand it, the longer you use such hives, the greater the wear and tear and the larger the gap between the hives that is sealed with propolis? Accordingly, it is more difficult to separate the cases...;
  • Beekeepers have to come up with a lot of things. For example, when separating polished parts, some use a sharpened chisel rubbed with laundry soap. A solution has been found and the result is not bad. But we are talking about hives of the 21st century, and we are forced to use “handicrafts”, no matter what;
  • And also in terms of service life - I don’t know how long they will last;
  • Bees gnaw polystyrene like a dog chews a bone - only a rustle in the silence. They gnaw out the kind of entrance they need;
  • If only someone had said something about laundry soap earlier, otherwise it’s a tight fit.
  • In winter, until the mesh bottom is made, there is mold and dampness - the food is spoiled, the families become weaker;
  • The main advantage is the use of such hives for spring breeding. The temperature in them is stable, and the bees gnaw them even in winter, and besides, if all sorts of rodent creatures find out that they can gnaw off even a piece, they will not leave them alone, and they will even call their friends for help. I think it is better to use wood (linden material) for the hive;
  • There is only one minus so far. You need to handle them carefully. Avoid impacts with harder objects;
  • In beekeeping everything should be NATURAL!
  • I don’t recommend foam plastic ones;
  • If you drop a full body crookedly at an angle from a height of 10 cm, it bursts and the frames crumble, however, then it’s easy to assemble it with self-tapping screws, but migration is already excluded;
  • Nonsense, not hives, one single mouse in the winter hut can gnaw through all the hives over the winter and destroy half of the families;
  • Of course, there is more dampness in them than in wooden ones.

Perhaps, reviews from open sources of information are enough. In conclusion, I will outline my reviews of polystyrene foam hives.

My thoughts on:

It seems that for those beekeepers who have created an apiary with wooden hives over many years of work, it is better to give preference to a wooden hive: it is cheaper and time-tested. Beginning beekeepers who have a long life ahead and who have a small number of wooden hives can gradually switch to polystyrene foam hives.

There is no consensus yet on the coloring of PPS hives. I think that polystyrene foam hives should be painted, just like wooden ones. But choose waterproof paints. Water-based paints with different tints are suitable. The paint will protect the nest from ultraviolet rays, help the bees remember their home, and the apiary will acquire an attractive appearance.

But even here you need to be careful, since these houses are sensitive to various solvents, for example, acetone.

Manufacturers need to use polymer strips at the upper edge of the housings, as well as make inserts at the tapholes and folds. Then the bees will not gnaw, and the bodies will be separated with a chisel without any problems, and the polystyrene crumbs will not come off.

If I had to raise bees in such hives, I would make wooden bottoms. They are made from polystyrene foam and are quickly destroyed; it is impossible to reliably attach tap barriers to them. Lightweight hulls and roof can serve. But here, too, there are questions: polystyrene foam is easily chewed through by mice, and wax moth larvae freely move along the walls of the buildings. Problems may arise with bee diseases. You cannot disinfect such a hive with the fire of a gas burner, as you would with wood. You will have to rely on lye or chemicals.

General conclusion: it is possible to keep bees in such hives, but in a healthy apiary, where there are no rodents or bee pests. Well, some modernization needs to be carried out.

Conclusion

The use of polystyrene foam hives can dramatically increase the productivity of apiary workers. This means that with a small number of staff it will be possible to service several thousand bee colonies. In the long term, even here in Russia, there may be a shortage of wood, and the possibilities for the production of beehives from polystyrene foam are inexhaustible.

It is only necessary to properly improve the quality and durability of such hives. I am sure that the widespread use of polystyrene foam hives will contribute to the introduction of new, hitherto unknown beekeeping technologies.

Beekeepers' Tips

It should be noted right away that Nizhegorodets beehives are more suitable for experienced specialists. It is better for novice beekeepers to gain experience on wooden hives, and after accumulating a certain amount of basic knowledge, switch to hives made of polyurethane foam. This is due to the fact that wooden hives do not require such close control over temperature and humidity; they are self-regulating systems: excess moisture formed inside the house is absorbed into the wood and does not cause excess moisture inside it.

However, if the decision to purchase Nizhny Novgorod is nevertheless made, then it is necessary to pay attention to a number of points regarding the correct use of models

If the hives will winter in a hive, then it is recommended to leave the bottom mesh open. To ensure feeding of insects in winter, it is necessary to install a “store” extension

This is especially important when overwintering hives in the field, when feed consumption caused by an open bottom increases significantly. By the way, wooden models equipped with a solid bottom do not need such measures, since there is no significant increase in feed consumption. During wintering, it is recommended to place Nizhegorodets hives on high stands

This is due to the freezing of condensate flowing from the mesh bottom of the house and the formation of an ice block under the hive. Experienced beekeepers advise switching to Nizhegorodets starting with one or two hives. And only after all the subtleties of operation have been mastered, transfer all the bees to polyurethane foam.

However, in fairness, it is worth noting that some experienced specialists are against the use of plastic in the apiary, explaining that insects should be in hives made of natural wood, and the proximity of honey and synthetic materials is unacceptable. Therefore, when choosing Nizhegorodets bee houses, you need to objectively weigh the pros and cons, soberly assessing your capabilities and professionalism.

To learn how to assemble Nizhegorodets hives for wintering, see the video below.

What to choose for the hive: PPU or PPS

PPU and EPS (expanded polystyrene) have long been discussed among thermal insulation manufacturers. Having carried out a comparative analysis as materials for building hives, I believe that polyurethane foam is superior to polypropylene foam in the following indicators:

  • PPS has low physical and mechanical properties;
  • exposed to chemical compounds;
  • the decomposition temperature of EPS is lower (60 °C) than that of PUF (130 °C);
  • the moisture content of the material is the cause of the appearance of mold and mildew inside the hive;
  • The danger of PPS lies in its chemical structure. This polymer is subject to depolymerization with the release of a residual highly toxic substance, styrene. Even in small quantities it affects the heart, liver and mucous membranes.

After weighing the pros and cons, I advised my father to buy or make hives from polyurethane foam. I am sure this decision will benefit the father and the bee family.

Khimtrust produces the SKD-50 system. The Khimtrust SKD-50 system is used for the production of beehives with a density in the finished product of 80-120 kg/m3.

Buy or make it yourself?

Residents of Russia who dream of beekeeping always face a difficult question. Where to start - buy ready-made hives or make them yourself? There is no clear answer. Decide on a solution to the problem.

Calculate the economic costs. If the goal is intra-family consumption, treating beloved relatives, then the purchase of tools, machines, lumber will cost a pretty penny and will significantly increase unjustified expenses.

Of course, we must not forget the time spent making bee hives with our own hands. Time also costs money.

If carpentry has already been established, there are certain capacities, think about it. You will need high-quality drawings of bee hives. Fitting requires the highest degree of craftsmanship.

That is why the vast majority tries to purchase factory-made hives. They undergo appropriate certification and are unified. Payback is quick. Quality is put at the forefront.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main positive aspects of two-queen beekeeping:

  • easy wintering (there are more bees and they warm each other more easily);
  • reduction of feed costs;
  • strengthening both families;
  • high egg laying of queens;
  • increasing the joint productivity of families.

Lecture on two-queen beekeeping

The disadvantages of this method include:

  • high financial costs for hives;
  • the bulkiness and inconvenience of working with heavy, 16-frame hives (often, without an assistant, it is impossible to even move them, given that one such double-frame hive weighs at least 60 kilograms);
  • poor ventilation due to division into small 8-frame housings (if the bees are uncomfortable, they can swarm and leave the hive);
  • hives of this configuration are poorly suited for viewing (the colony is located vertically, and in order to check several floors of the lower brood, you need to disassemble the entire structure). This makes it difficult to control the wards and makes it almost impossible to prevent swarming in a timely manner;
  • difficulty in establishing contact between different families (most often, they have been at odds for a long time, and, in the end, the beekeeper is forced to separate them).

Some beekeepers believe that even if they combine two different colonies into one hive, they do not become a single organism with two queens. They are united only by a common store. The two families were and remain separate. Honey yield increases only for the reason that together they winter much more efficiently and develop faster in the spring.

Two-queen beekeeping will only be an effective method when the bees move freely and have contact with both queens. While insects from the two halves of the hive are at odds, there can be no talk of a positive outcome.

Owner reviews

Andrey: “I added several of these hives to the apiary and was convinced of their convenience. The design is especially good when a nomadic way of working is assumed. They don’t take up much space and can be lifted by one person.”

Vadim: “I prefer to deal with natural materials, especially since I create all the hives myself and am confident in their safety. Synthetic substances do not inspire confidence. It is very important to preserve the benefits of honey, which is not possible to control with polyurethane foam.”

Denis: “The reliability of such a synthetic material really exceeds that of wood. Questionable microorganisms will not grow in it, and mice will not gnaw through the hive. Nizhny Novgorod is able to ensure the health of the apiary and prevent annual epidemics.”

Helping families in spring

Working with bees in beehives in spring and summer depends on the climatic conditions of a particular area.

If the main honey harvest occurs late - from the beginning to the end of July, it is more correct to maintain one bee colony with a full-fledged and well-sowing “queen”. By the beginning of honey collection, such a nest will occupy at least 20 hundred frames, subject to proper development.

During the early stages of the main honey collection, it is practiced to use helper families, staffed by overwintered “queens” or queens of this year.

The choice of queen in this case also completely depends on the climate, weather in the current year and the strength of the upcoming bribe:

  1. A strong spring honey flow requires old “queens” kept in the nuc behind a partition in the winter. They are used to replace unproductive females and correct queenless bee colonies, and unused nuclei are used to organize auxiliary nests.
  2. Young “queens” grown in the same year in layering are more suitable for summer honey collection.

Polystyrene foam hives and wintering of bees

Overwintering of families located in polystyrene foam hives can be carried out outdoors. This promotes early spring flight. The bees are actively building up their strength for the main honey harvest. There is no need for additional insulation in the form of pillows or warm side blocks.

But wintering, judging by the reviews of beekeepers, also reveals some disadvantages of polystyrene foam hives:

  • foam housings do not absorb water, and it flows to the bottom;
  • Compared to wooden ones, plastic families behave more actively, and this leads to greater food consumption. Therefore, strong families should leave at least 30 kg of honey for the winter. The solution here seems to be increased ventilation. This will help reduce the humidity and temperature in the nest, ensure peace in the winter club, and reduce feed consumption.

Layers and weak families overwinter well in hives of this type.

Advice from experienced beekeepers

Multi-building pavilion breeding of bees has features, knowledge of which will help novice beekeepers avoid mistakes.

Experienced beekeepers with this method of keeping advise:

  • refrain from installing the hive directly on the ground, since low temperatures in winter and high temperatures in summer can negatively affect the condition of the bee family;
  • When making a structure with your own hands, take care of its insulation in advance. At the same time, use not cotton wool as an insulation material, as was done before, but, for example, expanded polystyrene;
  • install the house in areas protected from wind and direct sunlight. Open areas are not suitable for installation of structures, as they can increase the risk of overheating or hypothermia of winged insects;
  • It is imperative to make a stand for the hive, which will avoid direct contact of the structure with the soil, and will also significantly facilitate its transportation;
  • work to expand the nest in the spring should be carried out in warm weather, since the brood located in the lower building may catch a cold.

A multi-section hive is considered an alternative option for keeping a bee family. Compared to traditional designs, it has several key advantages: it facilitates the care of insects, increases the productivity of bees and reduces the cost of honey products. Similar houses can be purchased in specialized stores, but more often, beekeepers prefer to make hives with their own hands.

The process of making a hive from polyurethane foam

Even a novice beekeeper can easily make a polyurethane foam hive with his own hands. You will need:

  • pattern for each part of the hive;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • glue;
  • dye.

The process of making a hive is as follows:

  • The inner surface of the mold is lubricated with an anti-adhesive agent;
  • Polyurethane is poured into the mold;
  • the mass whips, foams and hardens;
  • the hive is assembled from parts using self-tapping screws and glue;
  • The hive is covered with paint or sheathed with improvised materials. Recently, wrapping with foil has been practiced abroad; it perfectly protects polyurethane from the destructive effects of the sun.

A very important point is the quality of the source material. Ask the seller for certificates and other documents confirming the quality of the polyurethane being sold. Poor quality material not only breaks down within a year of use, but can also cause significant damage to the bee colony. The most important criterion for a bee house is the absence of odor in the material. If during the process of making a hive, after the polyurethane has hardened, you also feel an unpleasant odor from it, it is better to get rid of it, because bees are much more susceptible to odors than humans.

What materials are they made from?

The Nizhny Novgorod hive is produced from PPU - polyurethane foam. The material is resistant to moisture and is used in construction for thermal insulation. Polyurethane foam has the following characteristics:

  • density varies from 30 to 150 kg/m3;
  • the thermal conductivity of 1 cm of polyurethane foam is equal to 12 cm of wood;
  • products made from polyurethane foam can last up to 25 years;
  • the material rejects moisture and provides excellent sound insulation inside the hive;
  • bees and rodents do not eat polyurethane foam;
  • Due to the absence of toxic emissions, PUF is harmless to bees, humans, and beekeeping products.

Polyurethane foam hives from Nizhny Novgorod are not afraid of the effects of most aggressive chemicals.

Important! It is unacceptable for the PU foam hive to come into contact with open fire.

The nuances of making beehives from PPS yourself

Expanded polystyrene hives can be purchased ready-made. Such structures can be collapsible or monoblock and consist of a body, a separating grid, a feeder, a lid and a bottom (mesh or closed). The most popular options include the above-mentioned bed hives, Dadan hives with 6 and 10 frames. In addition, if you wish, you can make a homemade bee hive from polystyrene foam. This can be done quickly, although certain skills and knowledge will still be needed. You just need to prepare the tools and materials, and follow the step-by-step instructions exactly.

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