What to put between drywall and a wooden wall to keep mice out


How do mice get into the house?

Before starting a war with mice, it is necessary to identify the ways they enter the house. A proven folk method for determining the habitats of rodents is very simple: in the evening, sprinkle the floor with flour, starch or another similar substance. In the morning, following the tracks left by the overnight guests, it will be possible to see with centimeter accuracy the paths of their movement: where they get out, where they run and how they return. Having studied the future battlefield, you can begin extermination measures.

Another study, which also cannot be neglected, is to carefully check all the walls of the house in order to detect the passages through which mice enter the room. Most often, such holes are of banal construction origin.

Poorly sealed joints between panels, holes or cracks under carelessly fixed baseboards serve as convenient gateways for small rodents. But we must not lose sight of the possibility of them gnawing their own passages in the most secluded places.

Mice under drywall: how to get rid of rodents

Hello. Last fall we moved into our new house, and almost immediately a problem appeared - mice. Our walls and ceilings are covered with plasterboard, so you can hear constant fuss behind it. Their presence is not yet visible in the rooms, although the finishing has not yet been completed everywhere, not all drywall has been installed and there are free exits.

Tell me how to get mice out from under drywall without them dying there. I really don’t want to get one problem instead of another one related to an unpleasant odor.

Hello Roman. Usually mice come into the house with the onset of cold weather, and leave it with the arrival of warmth. But this does not mean that they will not return again next fall, so, of course, you need to decide how to get rid of mice under drywall. It is best to wait until it warms up, but if the issue needs to be resolved urgently, there are ways for this too.

Liquidation measures

If mice climb between walls, then the fight against them must begin by sealing all discovered holes through which the animals enter the room. The most reliable thing is to fill them with a mixture made from concrete and broken glass. As practice shows, no one has ever managed to chew through such a composition. But first, it is recommended to place rags soaked in caustic substances in the minks: vinegar, mothballs or ammonia. You can simply place poison there, or bunches of plants that rodents are afraid of - tansy, peppermint, black elderberry.

Special attention will be required to communications that allow mice to easily enter the internal cavities of the walls: ventilation ducts, sewerage and water supply outlets. They should be covered with a fine mesh net, always metal and not plastic.

For sealing holes, cracks and spaces around communications, the best solution would be special metallized wool from the Swiss company SWISSINNO .

Unfortunately, all these activities have one, but very unpleasant side effect. Rodents immured in the walls, unable to get out, eventually die, and their corpses begin to decompose. What kind of smell is established is probably clear to everyone.

Mummifying poisons for rodents

There may be several ways out of such an unpleasant situation. One of them is the use of poison with a mummifying effect, preventing the decomposition of the bodies of dead animals. For example, a popular remedy for mice in the Goliath house.

We can recommend the 4 in 1 “Inta-Vir” Set for mice and rats . It consists of four new generation mummifying baits placed in one package. This combination is suitable for exterminating rodents both in city apartments, private houses, and in utility rooms and even on the street.

  • The cost of the set is from 290 rubles

Read our rating of the best poisons for mice and buy the product

The advantages of the complete set are obvious:

  • — convenience and prostate dosage - each bait contains one lethal dose;
  • - 100% efficiency - death occurs to rodents no later than the fourth day after they try the “treat”;
  • — quality and environmental safety, tested by the State Consumer Rights Protection Service and the Institute of Disenfectology;
  • - economical - six hundred gram packaging is designed for an area of ​​300 m²;
  • — the presence of the bitter additive “mitrex”, inedible for everyone except rodents, eliminates accidental poisoning of domestic animals.

Preventing the appearance of rodents in the walls before the start of repair work

Another option is to try to lure the mice out of the walls and destroy them before the renovation work begins. It also has to be used in cases where it is not possible to detect rodent exit sites. This can be done in different ways:

The effect of substances with a pungent odor on rodents has already been discussed above. It is recommended to place traps with a sticky layer in holes close to the entrance, so that they can be easily pulled out along with the stuck victims. Mechanical mousetraps should be installed along traffic paths or near areas where mice enter the premises.

The Victor electric mousetrap , which has a ready-made bait, is very convenient for this use

The trap is a plastic box with two “floors”, which makes it absolutely safe for pets and children. The mouse runs up the stairs to the second level, where the bait is located and is destroyed by a strong current discharge, after which it ends up in a special container.

  • The cost of the trap is from 4500 rubles

Find out where to buy a Victor electric mousetrap

The container can hold up to 10 mice.

We drive mice out of the house using ultrasonics

As for repellers, the ultrasonic devices Tornado-300 and Tornado-400 are recognized as the most effective for use in apartments and private houses.

The main element of any ultrasonic repeller of the Tornado series is the ultrasonic emitter. It can generate ultrasound at a frequency that is practically undetectable by the human ear. But mouse-like rodents hear very well. So good that they run out of the room without looking back. Dogs, cats and other domestic animals are not sensitive to these vibrations. Only some people who have particularly acute hearing are able to notice the subtle hum of a switched-on device.

  • The cost of the repeller is from 2100 rubles

Read the instructions for use, reviews and buy the device

A small device - a rectangular box 13 centimeters long and weighing 500 grams, can serve an area of ​​up to 300 m². And TORNADO-400 is even 400 m². Their power does not exceed 10 W, they operate from a standard 220V outlet.

Causes of rodents

Mice sneak into a frame house for several logical reasons. First of all, this is a search for food, which is always available in residential buildings. They are especially attracted by the presence of large reserves of cereals. There is also a high probability of their appearance in winter for the purpose of shelter from the cold. In places where winters are quite cold, this is even more true.

Frame houses are not a particular obstacle to the penetration of rats and mice. When constructing a building, it is very difficult to avoid gaps in the floor or at the joints. The partitions here are often hollow, and a drywall bug is unlikely to keep mice out and prevent them from getting inside. In a frame house, when lathing, empty spaces are filled with insulation. Mice easily gnaw through them and make nests there. This is especially true when using low-quality material and improper installation.

Mice behind drywall

The most difficult thing to get rid of is mice that have settled behind drywall . This popular material is thin and friable enough for animals to gnaw through it without any problems. You can cement the holes made in it by mice as much as you like - they will certainly appear again.

What to do if there is a mouse in a plasterboard wall? Is it even possible to use it in areas where rodents often appear? There is a way out - this is the use of additional materials that are inaccessible to mouse teeth.

The simplest solution is to reinforce the drywall with a metal mesh having small cells. It is enough to do this from the outside, attaching the sheathing at a level of forty or thirty centimeters from the floor. But the holes in the mesh should be as small as possible - resourceful mice are able to squeeze into holes no larger than a pencil.

If the repair has already been completed and it is not possible to redo it, pay attention to What (discussed above). Such devices will force pests to leave your home after 2-3 weeks of constant use.

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Another possibility is the use of materials unsuitable for mice, placed in the space between the wall and the drywall. For example, broken glass, or glass wool, which is also a good insulation material. Ecowool containing orthoboric acid is also suitable. This substance can cause unbearable thirst in mouse-like rodents - unable to withstand such a “drought,” they eventually leave their nests.

According to the manufacturers, well-known expanded clay and foam glass are also suitable for expelling mice from walls. Rodents also don’t like the microclimate that sets in after filling them.

Some craftsmen advise pouring seeds of thorny plants - burdock and black root - between the walls, which cling to the fur coats of the animals and prevent them from moving. You can also use boric acid powder, but this can only be done during repairs.

Source: www.sibses.ru

Noise and squeaking at night, eaten away insulation in the floor, unpleasant smell? Apparently you have mice infestation. These, at first glance, harmless favorites of Disney cartoons are a real headache for all homes in all countries, for the sake of which new technologies are invented every year, and even new breeds of animals are bred. What are the general methods of dealing with them? And how to secure a bathhouse or country house left unattended? Now we will find out everything.

What are the dangers of a mouse infestation? So, let's figure out what difficulties ordinary house mice can create under the floor: Constant noise at night. Gnawed cables, wires and pipes made from certain materials. Insulation materials turned to dust. A specific and not very pleasant “mouse” smell in the house. Found mouse waste in the morning wherever possible. Danger of contracting rodent-borne diseases. And also such unpleasant phenomena as a dead mouse under the floor, which is not easy to find and pull out. Now imagine that in a year a female gives birth to up to 7 mice in each of 10 annual litters. Those. in 12 months there will already be 60-70 new rodents in your house! And each mouse matures within just three months, and also begins to reproduce. At the same time, mice are fast animals: they can reach speeds of up to 12 km/h, jump up to 75 cm in length, and up to 40 cm in height. Just don’t let this problem take its course - they will eat the house too.

Where do mice come from under the floor? The main goal of mice is food. The secondary goal is to build nests and reproduce in the house where the food is. And mice can smell food two kilometers away! (Note that the bear is only a little larger - for five). That is why, if you leave your country house or bathhouse closed for the season, remove from there everything that could attract these animals. Frame houses are especially targeted because of their design. Such a house can be built very quickly, quite inexpensively and at the same time fully meets all the requirements. But mice in its walls and floor are a real problem. An invasion of rodents into such a house can begin at the construction stage, but it is difficult to get rid of such pests. But even the most durable, serious building made of bricks or blocks also rarely manages to avoid the proximity of tailed animals - after all, they love to settle under the floor. And, if the walls can somehow be protected with metal sheets, then it is more difficult to drive a mouse out from under the floor. And with the arrival of cold weather, this beast will find any opportunity to get underground.

The mice themselves are different. Thus, in the warm season, voles make their nests in the open air - under boards, near garbage. Until autumn they actively reproduce, and at the first cold weather they go into any enclosed space. Moreover, they can get under your floor even through the slightly open front door and right in front of the owners! But domestic mice don’t really peek out from under the floor at all. Moreover, cats easily get used to the smell. Insulation and rodents: is there a solution? Let's be clear right away - most modern floor insulation materials really don't eat mice, but at the same time they live quietly in them. And they also build nests in soft ones. Fun fact: Mice's teeth grow throughout their lives. Moreover, if the mouse does not constantly chew something, then these teeth will grow into its upper jaw. Therefore, gnawing is a daily need for this animal. And the mouse can even sharpen concrete walls. Oddly enough, mice are especially often found in polystyrene foam. Moreover, they gnaw on it - but not with the goal of getting enough, but with the goal of building comfortable nests in it. And therefore, manufacturers recommend insulating walls and floors with ecowool, which is looser and creates an antiseptic environment. But mice also gnaw on it, although not so willingly. After all, as practice shows, mice can live under the floor in ecowool, foam plastic, and almost any other insulation. Even in glass wool! However, it is worth noting that it is very difficult, almost impossible, for a mouse to chew through ordinary plywood and OSB boards. All because of the structural features of her teeth. Like slabs that have a layered structure with wood chips directed in different directions. The secret of the survival of these animals in any conditions is their extreme unpretentiousness. That’s why they gnaw holes for themselves in anything, in a word.

Traditional methods of protecting the floor from mice If you still have mice under the floor, you can also contact a professional service. They carry out a special treatment that allows you to forget about rodents for a whole year. This is the simplest, although not the best option. There are other traditional methods.

Frightening aromas: from mint to burnt wool When laying the floor, add ash, slag, tobacco dust, dry wormwood or mint to the insulation - mice really don’t like all of this. Some also add red hot pepper or a lot of broken glass. Moreover, the smell of dried mint has a suffocating effect on the mouse. While you are away from the house, you can even hang this plant in different corners - this really helps. Underground mice do not like not only mint, but in general anything that smells strongly and unpleasantly. The aroma of burnt wool is especially disgusting for them - some even use it to fumigate the room, and throw the burnt remains under the floorboards. Mice do not like this smell and usually retreat from such places. Also, when building a house from blocks, builders often treat them with borax or lime solutions. Everything is the same. Traps: modern and homemade Glue traps are the most popular today. So far, the best reviews are for ALT glue, which is not expensive and quite sticky. It needs to be applied to a piece of plywood in the form of a circle, and a drop should be left in the very center. We put bait on it, and even if the mouse touches the glue with just the tip of its tail, it won’t go anywhere. Note that wire spring traps are least suitable for a private home in the fight against mice - if there are already a lot of holes and passages near the house, you will then have to dig out these pieces of iron on the site for a long time. But, if the rodents have already multiplied, such a fight against them can be exhausting.

Pesticides: the main thing is not to poison the cat! But pesticides have a significant disadvantage: firstly, they can accidentally poison a pet, and secondly, no matter how the sellers claim that mouse carcasses quickly mummify and do not emit odors, in fact they decompose for quite a long time in hard-to-reach places, and it is impossible to live in the house during this period. Therefore, if you use pesticides, then scatter them under the floor only in early autumn - when rodents gather to stay. Ultrasonic repellers: both mice and cats This is a new word in the fight against mice under the floor. After all, there are no barriers to ultrasound. So, they are small devices that, when turned on, produce a sound of a frequency inaudible to humans, but for rodents it is quite unpleasant and affects the nervous system. When choosing such a device, you should carefully choose the manufacturer and not save money, otherwise the cat may run away from the house. And ultrasonic repellers are not always safe for people. We can say that this issue has not been fully studied, and yet some part of the population hears a thin squeak when the device is turned on, which a priori should not be heard. Therefore, this method is more suitable for a bathhouse or a country house where you do not come too often. When we left, we turned on the device, when we arrived, we turned it off for a while. The range of modern repellers themselves is very diverse - and among such devices there are many that have a noticeable effect, but do not give 100% results. Thus, the most powerful repeller to date is “Spectrum”, which covers up to 300 square meters. For an underground space, this is the best choice: it works without interruption for several years, and can withstand high humidity in the basement and voltage in the electrical network. If the electricity is turned off, then the device will turn on itself, and therefore it is convenient to install it in a country house or bathhouse, where you are absent for months. But the most important thing to do is to close all the cracks in the house and completely isolate the food. After all, even nylon lids on jars can easily be chewed by mice - more reliable protection is needed here. Also, ordinary people recognize such repellers as “Typhoon”, Weitech WK-0300, WK-0600 CIX, “Grad A-500” and “GRAD A-1000 PRO” as quite effective. They have a fairly powerful and expensive base, a wide radiation pattern and a constantly changing ultrasound frequency, which ensures that rodents do not get used to it. Pestchaser 360 M+, Pestchaser 360 and “CHISTON-2 360” are already less popular. And the cheapest repellers have weaker technical components and low power. Rodents get used to them quickly and on the very first day. These brands are Weitech WK-0220, Pestchaser LS-968, Pestchaser AC/DC and Weitech WK-0240. If you decide to fight mice under the floor in this way, be sure to study the certificates included with your purchase. Otherwise you may end up buying a fake.

Predators - biological weapons So, the most terrible animals for mice are cats and ferrets. Moreover, the latter are much more experienced and dexterous in this regard! Get such a pet - you will be surprised. As for cats, not all breeds of this family like to catch mice. And cats are completely lazy. But rodents are more afraid not so much of the rare chance of getting caught as of the smell of the predator itself. That’s why some craftsmen scatter cat hair under the floor – and this is an excellent and effective method. You will also be interested to know that a cat is not just a predator that likes to eat mice. This is a real biological weapon against the latter. So, in cat excrement there are special substances that act on the consciousness of rodents, and they already behave more fearlessly - and are easier to get caught (which is why cat owners who are not very hygienic often, having lost the same sense of danger, end up in accidents more often than others - there are such research). A breed of dog such as the American Staff Terrier is also bred in America. These are real rat catchers, and they are bred specifically for farmland instead of cats. They are also great at catching mice, although they don’t eat them. Speaking of breeds: the more decorative a cat is, the less prone it is to natural hunting, and therefore it is better to give preference to an ordinary yard Murka. And finally, it is worth noting an interesting fact: what mice are most afraid of is not cats, but rats. And in the house where there is one rat, there are usually no mice. Protection against rodents during the construction stage Why at this stage? Yes, because it is much easier to prevent a rodent invasion than to fight them later. And the myths that there are no barriers for mice who want to get into the house are still myths. With a creative and attentive approach to this issue, you can completely ensure that such a misfortune never occurs in your home or bathhouse. But first, you can carefully study the current building codes, which list grilles, metal screens and other methods of protection. But remember, when installing a metal profile against mice, you must leave a gap so that the insulation does not get wet from condensation. Method #1 - expanded clay castle Here we are talking about the so-called “expanded clay castle”, when a layer of expanded clay is laid especially tightly and at least 10 cm thick. Here is a standard floor pie that is protected from mice during the construction of a house: 1st layer: lay expanded clay (fired clay) directly on the ground. The layer should be at least 30 cm thick. Cover with plastic wrap. 2nd layer: lay OSB-3 boards in two layers. 3rd layer: put expanded clay again. 4th layer: cover with oriented strand boards impregnated with synthetic wax and boric acid. These substances are good at repelling rodents. As you can see, nothing complicated. Method #2 - fine mesh The simplest and most effective method of mechanical protection against mice even at the construction stage can be called galvanized mesh. It should be made of durable metal and with small cells. Much smaller than you now imagine. Now we will explain why: the mouse’s skull has the property of “folding”, like that of a newborn, and therefore this animal will really fit where a pencil fits, as biologists like to say. So, it is advisable to lay the metal mesh over the subfloor during construction and additionally wrap it around the base if you live in a private house. And how to arrange floors with it, you can take a closer look at our photo instructions:

If possible, cover all corners (floor, wall, and ceiling) with mesh, which is usually used for plastering. Don't miss a single connection. Sometimes this material is used to protect against mice even after construction, when a problem with rodents becomes obvious. To do this, bury it around the foundation to a depth of 80 cm. If you notice already dug holes, then go even deeper. And place a mesh at least a meter high under the plinth sheathing. The foundation of the house is also sheathed with a 1.5 mm profiled sheet of structural steel. This is also good additional protection. Method #3 - leaving mice under the floor If you are satisfied that there will still be mice under the floor in small quantities, but will not penetrate into the house itself, then make this cake: Step 1. Forget about the insulation. A floor without mice is a floor without any cotton wool or polystyrene foam. Just make a shield - a floorboard right along the joists. Step 2. To prevent mice from getting into the gap between the edge of the floor and the outside sheathing, cut 10 cm strips of galvanized steel and nail them on top of the floor. Step 3: Cover these strips at the top with insulation and sheathing. These are the simple, proven recipes. The main thing is don’t give up!

Source: www.ispovednik.ru

Can mice climb walls?

To get into a building, rodents use the slightest crack, even if it is high enough above the ground. Mice easily climb walls, using any unevenness and their low weight. They can also enter the house through the attic, especially if the structure is wooden or lined with clapboard. Having climbed inside, they settle in ceilings, in walls, under the floor, going out in search of food at night.

In the house

Owners of real estate where these animals have settled describe cases when a rodent, clinging to a curtain or wallpaper, rose to a height of more than 1.5 meters, and from there jumped onto the table where food remained.

These animals also love to live behind drywall. The material doesn’t cost anything to chew through, it’s easy to climb walls made of it, and in most insulation materials, mice make nests for themselves between sheets of drywall.

Looking for holes

First of all, it would not hurt to identify the source of trouble and eliminate it. To understand the location of harmful animals, there is a proven method: at night, sprinkle flour on the floor and, based on the tracks left by the animals, determine where they crawl out from, where they roam and where they return. Based on this data, they carry out extermination measures.

The second option also needs to be completed. Carefully check all the walls in the apartment or house to detect holes through which rodents enter the room. These entrances and exits can be either of construction origin (unsealed cracks, holes under baseboards or on the surface left after repairs) or biological, that is, made by household pests.

Do mice eat (gnaw) drywall, if so, what should I do?

We want to cover the walls with plasterboard; indoors, especially closer to winter, sometimes there are traces of mice activity.

Do they eat drywall, if they chew or eat, then what to do.

There are no useful substances in drywall for mice.

That is, in the literal sense of the word, they do not eat it.

But they chew through gypsum boards without any problems.

The teeth of mice are designed in such a way that the incisors are subject to periodic grinding, because they grow constantly throughout life.

Mice chew on everything, even concrete.

And the distance between the gypsum board and the main surface is essentially an “invitation” for mice to set up their home there.

And even more so if mineral wool is also laid there.

That is, mice are comfortable living behind drywall and to get there, they easily chew through it.

There are several ways out of this situation:

Attach the gypsum board not to the frame, but using the adhesive method, directly between the gypsum board and the surface, there will be a gap, the gypsum board and immediately the wall, mice are not interested in such a design, the gypsum board is not food and there is no place to arrange a home there.

Do not use gypsum boards at all in a house or apartment where mice may appear.

Instead of mineral wool, lay either expanded clay or foam glass behind the gypsum board (preferably block, but granulated is also possible).

That is, from floor to ceiling, a metal mesh (fine mesh) is attached to the gypsum board and then a layer of putty is applied.

Mice will not chew the metal mesh.

Well, general recommendations, get a cat (in my opinion, the most effective option, the smell of a cat is enough for the mice to leave the room).

Buy a rodent repeller, ultra-short for example.

Keep products only in the designated place.

Buy a mousetrap, seal all the cracks and holes so that mice cannot get into the house at all.

Source

Methods of disposal

Elimination measures depend on the ways mice penetrate inside the walls. Follow the following tips.

All discovered holes and burrows must be carefully filled with a mixture of concrete and glass - this composition will be too tough for mice. First, poison, blackroot grass, tansy (or other poisonous plants that rodents are afraid of) or rags soaked in a solution of ammonia, vinegar, mothballs, and peppermint extract are placed in the hole.

Particular attention is paid to utility lines, through which mice can also easily get inside the wall. All ventilation ducts are covered with a fine-grained metal mesh, the outlets of sewer and water pipes are sealed and sealed so that no hole can squeeze through the existing gap.

Therefore, you should choose a poison with a mummifying effect (for example, mortorate, “rat death”, etc.), in this case the flesh does not decompose, but dries out. But before repair work, it is better to lure the mice out of the nest and destroy them using any available method, or even better, in several ways at once.

Various tricks are used for these purposes:

  • mechanical traps with bait;
  • sticky backings, again with an attractive treat in the center;
  • ultrasonic repellers;
  • unpleasant odors for rodents;
  • anti-mouse herbs (black root, tansy, wild rosemary);
  • rat poison;
  • They don’t forget about cats, mice don’t like being around them;
  • electronic live traps.

It’s clear that you don’t need to lay out and install “attraction boxes” throughout the house, but where the animal gang most often appears: near holes, next to food supplies. When working, do not forget about their own safety and the safety of their household, especially protect pets and children from traps and poisonous baits, so as not to cause trouble in the form of poisoning or serious injuries.

How to make mice go away

First of all, you need to try to force the rodents to leave their cozy nests, and in your case, this can still be done until the installation is completed.

To do this, materials hazardous to mice must be laid or poured into the space between the main wall and the plasterboard lining:

The first materials are prickly or noisy, they make the animals’ life unbearable. And ecowool, which contains thirst-inducing orthoboric acid, forces them to look for less “arid” places.

Advice. You can also use boric acid, but this is a poison from which mice can die if they remain behind the cladding.

If it is not possible to make such bookmarks along the entire perimeter with your own hands, then at least let them be where the repair work has not yet been completed.

Mice and drywall

Often mice settle behind drywall, and getting rid of these residents becomes problematic. The building material is too thin, pliable and it is easy for rodents to chew through it, no matter how carefully the cracks and holes are sealed.

What to do? In houses where gray bandits become frequent guests, either do not use drywall at all, or additionally reinforce it on the outside with a metal mesh with small cells. It is not necessary to cover the entire height of the walls; it will be enough to attach it at a distance of 30-40 cm from the floor. The mesh holes should be minimal - after all, rodents are able to crawl into holes the size of a pencil .

Builders also advise laying various materials that are dangerous or unattractive to mice in the space between the drywall and the main wall:

  1. Broken glass along the entire perimeter of the wall.
  2. The glass wool layer is a prickly material and animals do not like to come into contact with it, although home owners claim the opposite.
  3. Instead of glass wool, you can use ecowool. The fact is that in its composition, in addition to environmental cellulose, there is orthoboric acid. The substance causes severe thirst in rodents, so mice, even if they settle in this heat-insulating material, will eventually retreat anyway, unable to withstand the “drought.”
  4. Well, the last alternative to laying in drywall is foam glass or expanded clay: according to manufacturers, their animals are not particularly fond of them.

The folk method, which also has a right to exist, is quite simple and unpretentious: during installation work on the construction of the structure, burdock or blackroot seeds are placed in the pier. The “nuts” are not only prickly, but also tenacious - they stick tightly to the animal’s fur, interfering with its movement. As a result, mice either die of hunger or do not penetrate such walls at all.

Instead of poisonous plants, you can add a layer of boronic acid: again, this is added during the repair process, because after that it will be difficult to do so.

If the pests do settle down behind the drywall, they work according to the scheme described above: they lure them out, destroy them, and close up the holes.

How to fill the voids between walls and drywall instead of insulation

Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of drywall, it is advisable to take care of what material to choose to eliminate the void between its sheets and the load-bearing base. How important is it to fill the free space with one or another finishing element? A serious discussion may flare up on this issue between competent specialists, but there is simply no consensus on this matter. If a void forms between the drywall and the wall, it is important to fill it with some suitable material. And here you can freely show your imagination, aimed at creating a suitable interdimensional layer.

Thanks to it, all this hollowness is eliminated and the strength of the finish itself is significantly increased. Therefore, these positive factors cannot be ignored, because they can be decisive for creating a positive internal microclimate inside the home! You can also think about equipping the entire wall base with plywood, and then attaching plasterboard sheets to it. The advantage of this method is the technical simplicity of installation, which is done using traditional dowels and nails.

But it is extremely important to hammer them in at even intervals around the entire perimeter. Of course, the most classic option is polystyrene foam, which is the most common insulation material. But in practice, it is quite possible to do without it, the main thing in this case is to show your ingenuity!

The owner of a private house may encounter such a problem when mice run under the suspended ceiling, hide in the cavity between the walls and there is no way to get them out of there. Reason: the basement of the house (not finished); mice penetrated under the skin of the house and got inside through the outdoor unit of the air conditioner of the installed split system

How to treat the surface → Room decoration → How to choose the right paint → Surface treatment technologies → Leveling and finishing the walls → Selecting and applying a primer → Removal from the surface → Stretch ceilings and technologies → Reviews and testimonials

Preventive measures

Preventive measures have been discussed more than once. The main principle is this: there are no pests in a clean house.

Therefore, adhere to simple rules:

  • They constantly carry out general cleaning, during which they find and throw away all found garbage that is not of household or other interest;
  • do not leave scraps on the table, under the table, but promptly put them in a trash can with a lid;
  • do not clutter the house and apartment with unnecessary things;
  • all products are kept out of reach in tightly sealed containers;
  • They periodically inspect the residential area, seal up any mouse holes found, having previously prepared an unpleasant surprise for the rodent using poison or a mousetrap.

Fighting mice is not an easy task, but you can cope with the task. The main thing is to approach the issue with ingenuity and knowledge of the matter.

Source: vetugolok.ru

Scared by living creatures in plasterboard walls

Good afternoon, neighbors. Because With renovations just around the corner, you can say I’m “joining” your friendly conference.

Input data: Renovation in a new building. The house was built a year ago. Monolith. The apartment is completely unfinished. I want to make temporary repairs for 5-7 years until the house settles down, then redo it (or maybe not, if I like it or if I’m lazy). Therefore, the option was chosen with dry screed, suspended ceilings and plasterboard wall cladding and the construction of interior partitions from the same. Those. everything is done as quickly as possible and regardless of the walls. I will lay mats for sound insulation between the wall and the plaster (so that the drum does not turn out)

Looking for holes

First of all, it would not hurt to identify the source of trouble and eliminate it. To understand the location of harmful animals, there is a proven method: at night, sprinkle flour on the floor and, based on the tracks left by the animals, determine where they crawl out from, where they roam and where they return. Based on this data, they carry out extermination measures.

The second option also needs to be completed. Carefully check all the walls in the apartment or house to detect holes through which rodents enter the room. These entrances and exits can be either of construction origin (unsealed cracks, holes under baseboards or on the surface left after repairs) or biological, that is, made by household pests.

Modern home protection from rodents

Even during construction, it is advisable to take care that pests are not able to get into the home in the future. Metal mesh will help solve this problem. When choosing, you should pay attention to the size of the cells so that even a mouse cannot slip through them. The base of the house is sheathed with it, going deep into the ground up to 1 m, placed on the subfloor, and all technical holes are sealed. To protect floors and walls from mice, the following methods are used:

  • Expanded clay is poured directly onto the ground in a layer of 30 cm. Covered with plastic film and OSB-3 boards are laid. Another layer of expanded clay is poured on top.
  • Another option is to cover the subfloor with strips of galvanized steel, on which insulation is placed.
  • Insulation for walls is selected from materials that are difficult for rodents to damage: foam glass, ecowool. The latter is impregnated with orthoboric acid, which causes difficulty breathing in the gray brethren.

When mice have settled behind drywall, there is no point in sealing the passages. They will immediately gnaw new ones. It is necessary to change the insulation to a material that is more resistant to the teeth of animals. You cannot put poison in the walls. A rodent can die in a hard-to-reach place, and the cadaverous smell will remain in the room for a long time.

Methods of disposal

Elimination measures depend on the ways mice penetrate inside the walls. Follow the following tips.

All discovered holes and burrows must be carefully filled with a mixture of concrete and glass - this composition will be too tough for mice. First, poison, blackroot grass, tansy (or other poisonous plants that rodents are afraid of) or rags soaked in a solution of ammonia, vinegar, mothballs, and peppermint extract are placed in the hole.

Particular attention is paid to utility lines, through which mice can also easily get inside the wall. All ventilation ducts are covered with a fine-grained metal mesh, the outlets of sewer and water pipes are sealed and sealed so that no hole can squeeze through the existing gap.

Therefore, you should choose a poison with a mummifying effect (for example, mortorate, “rat death”, etc.), in this case the flesh does not decompose, but dries out. But before repair work, it is better to lure the mice out of the nest and destroy them using any available method, or even better, in several ways at once.

Various tricks are used for these purposes:

  • mechanical traps with bait;
  • sticky backings, again with an attractive treat in the center;
  • ultrasonic repellers;
  • unpleasant odors for rodents;
  • anti-mouse herbs (black root, tansy, wild rosemary);
  • rat poison;
  • They don’t forget about cats, mice don’t like being around them;
  • electronic live traps.

It’s clear that you don’t need to lay out and install “attraction boxes” throughout the house, but where the animal gang most often appears: near holes, next to food supplies. When working, do not forget about their own safety and the safety of their household, especially protect pets and children from traps and poisonous baits, so as not to cause trouble in the form of poisoning or serious injuries.

We lure and destroy

The fact that you have not yet found traces of mice in the house does not mean that they are not coming out of their hiding place. Your task is to find exit points and exterminate rodents.

Search for holes

Finding exactly where the mice have settled under the drywall, where they come from and whether they come out at all is very simple. To do this, sprinkle the floor along the walls with a thin layer of flour overnight. In the morning you will probably see footprints on it and understand where they come from and where their path lies.

Methods of destruction

There are many ways to exterminate mice in the house:

  • Mechanical mouse traps and adhesive substrates , which are installed in places where rodents exit burrows or along their route;
  • Poisonsused as required by the instructions for a specific drug;
  • Rags soaked in mothballs, ammonia, vinegar or peppermint extract , which are used to tightly plug the exits from the holes;
  • And, of course, cats.

It is important! If there is a cat in the house, you should not use poisons to kill mice. After eating a poisoned animal, your pet may also die.

As for toxic substances, when they are used there is a really high probability that dead rodents will remain in an inaccessible place and begin to decompose, emitting an unpleasant odor. Therefore, it is better to choose poisons with a mummifying effect.

If you have mice between the drywall and the wall, now you know what to do. But it would be better to prevent them from appearing at all. And it's never too late to do this.

Mice and drywall

Often mice settle behind drywall, and getting rid of these residents becomes problematic. The building material is too thin, pliable and it is easy for rodents to chew through it, no matter how carefully the cracks and holes are sealed.

What to do? In houses where gray bandits become frequent guests, either do not use drywall at all, or additionally reinforce it on the outside with a metal mesh with small cells. It is not necessary to cover the entire height of the walls; it will be enough to attach it at a distance of 30-40 cm from the floor. The mesh holes should be minimal - after all, rodents are able to crawl into holes the size of a pencil .

Builders also advise laying various materials that are dangerous or unattractive to mice in the space between the drywall and the main wall:

  1. Broken glass along the entire perimeter of the wall.
  2. The glass wool layer is a prickly material and animals do not like to come into contact with it, although home owners claim the opposite.
  3. Instead of glass wool, you can use ecowool. The fact is that in its composition, in addition to environmental cellulose, there is orthoboric acid. The substance causes severe thirst in rodents, so mice, even if they settle in this heat-insulating material, will eventually retreat anyway, unable to withstand the “drought.”
  4. Well, the last alternative to laying in drywall is foam glass or expanded clay: according to manufacturers, their animals are not particularly fond of them.

The folk method, which also has a right to exist, is quite simple and unpretentious: during installation work on the construction of the structure, burdock or blackroot seeds are placed in the pier. The “nuts” are not only prickly, but also tenacious - they stick tightly to the animal’s fur, interfering with its movement. As a result, mice either die of hunger or do not penetrate such walls at all.

Instead of poisonous plants, you can add a layer of boronic acid: again, this is added during the repair process, because after that it will be difficult to do so.

If the pests do settle down behind the drywall, they work according to the scheme described above: they lure them out, destroy them, and close up the holes.

Can a rat chew through drywall?

I wanted to share such a bitter experience so that others, before doing anything, would think about what they could come up with from these animals, otherwise drywall is like cardboard to them))). A year ago I started doing renovations for myself, the walls were terrible, the plaster was honestly 5-8 cm long. So as not to chip it, I decided to make the walls out of plaster. We live on the 1st floor, the floors are wooden, the skirting boards are 3 cm thick and 4 cm high; in general, it was difficult for mice to reach. I started doing repairs with a friend of mine because at that time I myself didn’t have much mastery of how to make walls from plasterboard, and he himself was a mason who worked in Kyiv doing repairs there and he himself didn’t have much mastery of the experience of a plasterboarder)).

From the very beginning, I realized that it was better to leave the baseboards, but in some places I had to slightly disturb their usual position (the baseboards). I filled the holes after the break with broken glass, and just to be sure, I sewed them up with galvanized steel. They made repairs. After 2 months. I started to notice the rustling of these animals behind the drywall, which is what I didn’t do, it’s so annoying honestly: I’m lying at night, these creatures, one or two at once, are running behind the drywall, the stomping seems like elephants are running. I would like to take something heavier and smash it into... this plaster so that I can get those creatures.

The Internet began to rustle. Sprinkling chamomile and various scented repellents doesn’t help, they write that it’s not advisable to throw poison because the smell is strong afterwards. Only one thing helped, but I don’t know how long it took to buy an ultra-sonic rodent repeller and threw it under the floor. The first time I threw it there and turned it on. It wasn’t me who was thinking, but the mice on the other side would just take out the plaster (this is the effect) they are running from this thing like crazy, and I’m running away completely, now it’s on. it once every 2 weeks for an hour for prevention. Here's a story about mice.

Preventive measures

Preventive measures have been discussed more than once. The main principle is this: there are no pests in a clean house.

Therefore, adhere to simple rules:

  • They constantly carry out general cleaning, during which they find and throw away all found garbage that is not of household or other interest;
  • do not leave scraps on the table, under the table, but promptly put them in a trash can with a lid;
  • do not clutter the house and apartment with unnecessary things;
  • all products are kept out of reach in tightly sealed containers;
  • They periodically inspect the residential area, seal up any mouse holes found, having previously prepared an unpleasant surprise for the rodent using poison or a mousetrap.

Fighting mice is not an easy task, but you can cope with the task. The main thing is to approach the issue with ingenuity and knowledge of the matter.

Source: vetugolok.ru

Do mice chew drywall?

Preventive actions

If possible, it is better to wait until summer and the voluntary departure of rodents. After this, it will be possible to carry out a number of measures, thanks to which they will not return back.

  • First of all, you need to find all the openings leading into the house from the street, which are open gates for mice. After all, a gap 1-2 cm wide is enough for them. These can be unsealed joints between foundation blocks, cracks in walls, outlets of water and sewer pipes. All discovered holes must be sealed using a mixture of concrete and broken glass.

  • The internal perimeter also needs careful examination. It is necessary to eliminate cracks under the baseboards and other construction flaws, and cover the ventilation ducts with fine metal mesh.
  • Drywall before puttying can also be reinforced with a fine-mesh metal mesh 30-40 cm wide. Above that, rodents will no longer reach and chew through the lining.

And in order not to attract uninvited guests into the house, it is necessary to maintain cleanliness and order in it and the surrounding area. You must not accumulate garbage, especially with food waste, or leave food on the table or in other accessible places. It is advisable to place the compost heap away from your home.

And the house will have to be regularly inspected for new holes or passages made by rodents.

How to insulate a wall from rodents.

In a rural house, I am going to cover the interior walls with plasterboard. Please tell me what kind of insulation (film, isover, fine metal mesh) to put between the wall and the plasterboard to prevent mice from entering the rooms from the walls. Thank you in advance for your answer.

under voltage, and perimeter protection.

lay the lowest profile of the sheathing along the floor, it won’t be chewed through, and if a mouse decides to climb on it, then cut self-tapping screws into it with the sharp edges pointing upward! Let him try to hold on to them or crawl between them

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