Aphids on orchids: what to do with them, how to get rid of and cure the plant, how to treat the flower against this white pest, photos and videos on the topic

Today many people are interested in growing orchids. Fans of this plant know how capricious it is to care for . One problem is aphid attack .

It is important to remember that this insect reproduces quickly and can destroy an orchid in a short time, so you should constantly check the plant for the presence of aphids.

Having noticed the first signs, in no case should you postpone measures to destroy the infection.
In this case, it is important to strictly follow the instructions , since if you make a mistake in processing, the plant can be seriously harmed or even die.

Types of aphids

Several types of aphids love orchids :

Buraya;
Green;

Aphids come in a variety of colors.
Read also: Why can aphids appear on dill and why are they dangerous? How to treat the plant?
Black;
Yellow;
White;
Red.

Identifying the species is very difficult due to the fact that there are about 800 species of this insect, but do not worry about the diversity. All our recommendations are suitable for exterminating any species. The most popular is the white aphid. In the photo above you can see what aphids look like.

How to treat the soil and roots?

It is recommended to periodically, even for preventive purposes, water the plant with a solution of potassium permanganate, but if it becomes infected, this must be done. You can water the soil in the pot with a solution of biological preparations, but you should not treat the roots with chemicals. An infusion of onion peels helps a lot.

It happens that when orchids are transplanted, characteristic growths caused by aphid infestation are found on the roots. They must be removed immediately and the entire plant disinfected.

Spread, entering the plant

Aphids can attack a beautiful orchid in many ways, for example :

Through the open window;
Can move from other indoor flowers;
From the clothes and shoes you wore down the street.

It can move into your home along with a flower from the store and the soil.

Aphids on orchids begin to take root :

From the inside of the sheet;
And on young shoots.

Then, having multiplied, they go to the stem and get to the juiciest place - the flower bud . Also, these small insects appear if the plant is placed in a too dry and unventilated room.

Important! When purchasing an orchid at a retail outlet, you must inspect it very carefully for the presence of pests. It is necessary to inspect not only the above-ground part of the plant, but also the soil in the pot.

Signs and causes of infection

You should study the orchid for signs of aphids from the back side of the leaf:

Small insects are the first and surest sign. They don't move, but they devour flowers at breakneck speed.
Loss of brightness of bud color. If two days ago the flower was bright purple, but today it suddenly turns white, you should check the flower for aphids.
The tips of the leaves are dry.
The stem in the area at the root rots.
The petals suddenly change shape.

Having identified one or more signs, you should immediately begin treatment.

The appearance of pests of all types is provoked by environmental conditions:

High content temperature. Hot temperatures outside or in the house provoke the development of aphids.
The air is too dry. In the summer, outside or in the apartment, in the absence of rain, the air becomes dry.
Lack or excess of beneficial vitamins and minerals.
The infection spread in the nursery where the seedlings were purchased. The flower arrived at the planting site already infected.
Infected insects have moved from the soil.
The infection occurred from a neighbor's plants.

The fight against aphids involves getting rid of specific symptoms and actions aimed at the overall restoration of the plant.

External manifestations of the lesion

You can understand that aphids are on your orchid visually by looking at the appearance of the flower:

The bud curls and does not look very beautiful, and subsequently falls off;
Leaves and stems are limp and soft.

At an earlier stage of infection, you may notice a plaque that is slightly sticky when touched.

It is best if the flower is regularly inspected , then the presence of aphids can be noticed at an early stage; small insects will be visible on the back of the plant leaf.

When aphids appear on an orchid, the leaves become soft and limp.

Aphids use orchid sap for their nutrition, which causes serious damage to the plant. From the effects of aphids :

Leaves curl;
The stems become dark;
And the flower stalks dry up.

Signs of orchid infestation by aphids

The pest multiplies so quickly that it is impossible not to notice it on the plant. As soon as one individual appears, in a couple of days a whole colony of several hundred insects will already be swarming on the orchid. If an orchid is attacked by an aphid, then first of all it settles on young shoots, at the base of buds and on open flowers, on the underside of leaf blades.

The areas where aphids have settled instantly become covered with sticky honeydew and shine. In addition to all the listed signs, on the surface of the affected area, white scales are clearly visible - dead skin that the insect sheds during development.

The affected orchid slows down its growth and withers, the leaves often turn yellow and curl, the buds either do not open at all or bloom into a deformed flower. Black mold spots are often visible on the sticky secretions of aphids - this is a sooty fungus settling on the plant.

Basic methods of struggle

Many beginners are interested in how to get rid of aphids on an orchid? In order to exterminate aphids, many different methods , which we will discuss below.

Mechanical method

What to do if you don’t have various medications at home? You should :

Use your hands to collect adults and larvae;
Destroy them;
Next, adjust the water pressure until warm;
Wash our flower.

You can also dilute a soap solution in a container and, dipping a sponge into the liquid, very carefully wipe each leaf and stem of the infected orchid. It is important that water does not pour into the axils of the leaves - this can cause rotting. Finally, stir up the soil and add potassium permanganate diluted with water.

Biological products

How to fight aphids at home? The latest invention is biologics . Destruction by these substances occurs due to infection of insects by bacteria. The impact process is not carried out immediately, but within one week.

The advantage of this composition is :

Possibility of processing indoors;
Possessing protective properties that last for at least 10-12 days.

The process is carried out by spraying the plant leaf on both sides, as well as the stem. It is important to prevent the working solution from coming into contact with the flower.

Aphids can be destroyed with various biological products.

After 10-12 days, it is advisable to repeat the treatment.

So how to treat an orchid against aphids? Today, proven biologically based drugs are the following :

Arrow;
30-plus;
Fitoverm;
Entobacterin;
Akarin;
Confidor.

The action of Fitoverm begins within two days and can last 14-20 days.

Entobacterin begins to act after 5 days; at higher temperatures (up to 30 degrees), its effect improves significantly. At a lower temperature , it is recommended to prepare a stronger solution (there should be 15-25 percent less water in the solution).

Akarin does not destroy all types of aphids ; it is recommended to check the result after 6-8 days by examining the plant for the presence of insects and make sure how effective the drug is in this particular case.

of the drug Strela is bitoxibacillin, the waiting period is 2 days , the product destroys many different pests.

An effective remedy for aphids is the drug 30-plus . This is an oil emulsion. Many experienced flower growers successfully use it in the fight against these small sucking insects.

Confidor is a drug produced in Germany . Its effect should be checked five to seven days after treatment. The reviews about it are wonderful.

Attention! The effect of using biological products begins to be felt after about 5-7 days. A week after the first spraying, the treatment can be duplicated.

Chemical treatment

Chemicals should be used in exceptional cases - not before a massive aphid attack on the orchid. There are several types of chemicals:

Intestinal;
Contact;
System.

Contact ones, when they get on the skin of an insect, destroy it , the other two kill it through the internal organs.

Intestinal and systemic agents have a higher percentage of probability of destroying pests .

Chemicals effectively fight aphids.

It is better to use chemical solutions alternately with intervals of 15 days. If you use the same product, insects adapt to it and this drug can no longer have a detrimental effect on them.

It is also not recommended to use insecticides more than three times and orchids should be treated outside. Be sure to wear :

Respirator;
Latex gloves.

It is important to follow the instructions for using chemicals:

Aktara. An excellent remedy for exterminating aphids. It works great both for watering the ground and for spraying orchid greenery. It acts on nerve endings, provoking paralysis of pests, which leads to their death almost instantly. After spraying the plant, this drug enters the plant sap and then into the beetle’s body. The protective effect of Aktara lasts on the stem and leaves for about 20 days, and in the ground for about 2 months. It is advisable to do the treatment again after 10 days;
Actellik. This is a very potent remedy. It is recommended to use when the flower is in a neglected state. Perfectly kills pests in the soil, on the stem and leaves. Actellik copes effectively after the first treatment. The aphids begin to die during the spraying process.

Important! It is recommended to alternate all chemicals used in pest control. Due to the fact that insects can get used to any drug, it is not used more than 3 times.

Folk remedies

Traditional methods can be effective only at the initial stage of aphid infestation. For this purpose, decoctions, infusions and various solutions are prepared. They can be used both for treatment and for prevention.

Almost all folk recipes for pest control solutions contain soap . Due to the soap, a protective film is formed on the leaves, thanks to which the components of the drug remain active. The soap should be grated and stirred in warm water until dissolved:

Marigold. Plants should be collected during flowering and wait until dry. Pour warm water into a container, place crushed dried flowers there, and let it brew for about two days. Next, through gauze folded several times, the infusion should be filtered and one teaspoon of laundry soap should be added. Spray the plant thoroughly;
Hogweed. We also collect it during the flowering phase and along with the roots. Pour 100 grams of dry herb into 1 liter of heated water and leave for 22 hours. Spray thoroughly;

There are many folk remedies to combat aphids.
White mustard. Add 1 liter of heated water to 10 g of mustard seeds. Close tightly and leave for 48 hours. Filter. The concentrated preparation is ready. To start the spraying process, you should dilute it - for one glass of the finished concentrate, four and a half glasses of water;
Creeping bitterweed. As soon as the plant begins to bloom, you should collect it, except for the roots. Dry. Pour one kilogram of dry grass with water. Leave for 12 hours and boil for 30 minutes. Add 30 g of soap to the composition and treat the plant. You can also let it sit for 24 hours and then immediately spray;
Datura common. It must be collected while the plant is blooming, excluding the roots. Dry naturally. Prepare an infusion of 50 grams of dry plant per 1 liter of warm water, leave for 11 hours. Then add 1 teaspoon of soap. Spray the orchid thoroughly with this solution;
Tomato tops. Cut fresh tops. Pour 1 liter of water into a container, add 400 grams of tops. Boil for 30 minutes. Cool, add 4 g of soap and generously spray the infected plant;
Tobacco. Pour 40 grams of tobacco with slightly heated water and leave for about a day. After insisting, add soap - 4 grams;
Yarrow. It is important to harvest yarrow as soon as it begins to bloom, except for the roots. Dry and crumble. Pour boiling water over 100 grams of the plant, then leave for 50 minutes. Next, bring the volume of the solution to 1 liter and wait another 1 hour. Afterwards, again add 4 grams of grated soap;
Garlic. Grind 30 grams of cultured bulbs with husks and place them in 1 liter of slightly heated water. After the infusion has steeped for about a day, add 4 grams of soap.

The above is not a complete list of folk remedies that effectively fight aphids on orchids. This sucking pest can be exterminated using the following decoctions and infusions :

Nettle infusion. Chop freshly cut nettles. Place 0.5 kg of nettle in 5 liters of water and leave for almost a day;
Celandine. This plant is good to use when aphids are found on an orchid in large numbers. It should be collected while the flowering phase continues. Cut half a kilogram of green plants, add 1 liter of water and let it simmer for 30 minutes;
Coniferous infusion. Take 0.5 kg of pine needles for two liters of cool water. Leave for 8 days in a dark place. Before spraying the orchid, you should dilute this infusion with water, 1 part of the infusion to seven parts of water;

Various decoctions and infusions also help well in the fight against aphids.
Citruses. To do this, pour 100 g of dried orange or lemon peels with water. Let stand for about three days, preferably in a warm and dark place. Then thoroughly spray the infected plant;
Onion. We cut its fruits into small pieces and put 15 grams of onion in one liter of warm water. Close with an airtight lid and leave for about 8 hours. After filtering, the solution is ready for practical use. Also, instead of the onion itself, you can use its scales (10 grams);
Dandelion officinalis. Fill a bucket with 10 liters of water. Dip 400 grams of green leaves into it and leave for about 2 hours. After this, strain and thoroughly spray the leaves and stem of the infected orchid;
Wood ash. Fill a bucket with 10 liters of water. Pour 2 glasses of water into it. Leave for 6 hours. Then add soap shavings;
Alcohol. Two teaspoons of crushed soap plus 2 tbsp. l. warm water, stir until the soap dissolves. Then add 1 tbsp. l. technical alcohol and 1 liter of water. After 15 minutes, rinse the plant under running warm water. If this is not done, you can burn the leaves ;
Red pepper. Grind the pepper, pour about 50 grams of pepper into two glasses of water and boil for 50 minutes. Then leave for a day and filter. Dilute 10 grams of tincture in 1 liter of warm water and add 5 grams of soap.

Be sure to monitor the plants for 14 days after treatment. If the aphids remain, you should proceed to chemical treatment.

Is it possible to fight pests with folk remedies?

There are a lot of folk remedies for fighting aphids, and most of them are quite affordable. However, at a late stage of the lesion they are not always effective.

Here are some of them:

Garlic. The bulbs are crushed together with the husks and dissolved in warm soapy water, the product is infused for a day, after which it is sprayed.
White mustard. 10 g of mustard is dissolved in 1 liter of warm water and left for two days, the resulting concentrate is diluted with water in a ratio of 4:1.
Tomato tops. 0.5 kg of tops is poured into 1 liter of water, boiled for 30 minutes and, after cooling, sprayed on the affected plant with added soap.
Nettle. It is crushed, filled with water and infused for about a day.
Bulb onions. It is cut together with the husk, filled with water and left for about 8 hours, before use it is filtered and then sprayed on the orchids.
Citrus peels. They are also filled with water, left for 3 days and sprayed several times.
Alcohol. The soap solution is mixed with alcohol in equal proportions; 15 minutes after the spraying procedure, the leaves are washed with water so that they do not burn.

Some gardeners successfully fight aphids using the medicine Trichopolum. The tablet is dissolved in water and sprayed on the plants. You can bury such a tablet in the ground before planting an orchid; it is believed that this will be a preventive measure against many pests.

Tips and preventive measures

To prevent damage to indoor orchids by aphids and other pests, you need to adhere to a number of preventive measures :

In order for your orchid to please you for a long time, water it at certain hours and regularly, once a week. In winter and autumn you should water the flower less often than in summer;
Do not allow the soil to dry out;
Spray periodically, but pay attention that water does not collect on the leaves and in the flower bud;

Don't forget to spray your orchid periodically.
Remember to constantly check the flower, especially the underside of the leaf;
It is advisable to keep the flower that first entered your home separately from the rest for a week and regularly check for the presence of harmful insects;
Maintain the orchid's fertilization system strictly . An excess or deficiency of elements such as iron or nitrogen greatly weakens plant immunity. Weakened orchids are an excellent target for aphids;
When replanting, use only disinfected pots.

Attention! If during a routine examination you find white scales on the underside of the flower, this means that your flower is infested with aphids. Young individuals molt several times as they grow, leaving scales on the surface of the leaves.

What to do to prevent the parasite from appearing again?

The best way to control pests is prevention. It's much easier than fighting a horde of plant-eating insects. To prevent orchids from getting sick, they need to create favorable conditions on the site.

Orchids grow and develop correctly when these conditions are met.:

Air humidity. If the orchid grows at home, then the air humidity in the room must be maintained at least 60%.
Water the flowers correctly; moisture should not stagnate in the buds and leaves. The ideal option would be to spray the leaves and buds on top with cool water and apply moderate root watering.
Don't ignore the important role of fertilizing. Proper fertilizers will provide orchids with good immunity.

Important! Inspect the flowers every day, this way you will not cause diseases and will be able to eliminate their causes in a timely manner.

The key to healthy orchids is constant monitoring and prevention. If you do not spread diseases and identify pests in time, you will not have to urgently save flowers with chemicals.

What types of pests attack the flower?

Orchids are affected by different types of aphids: gray, black, white, brown, green, red and yellow.

Aphids primarily settle on the underside of leaves. The insects then spread along the stem and eventually reach the flowers, infecting the entire plant.

Attention! Aphids feed on the juices of the flower, thereby damaging its tissue. As a result, the leaves curl, the stem turns black, and the flower stalks dry out and fall off.

During their life, these parasites secrete sticky sugary secretions that cover the flower with a translucent coating. This liquid is very attractive to ants, with which aphids are in constant symbiosis.

Therefore, it is not surprising that when aphids appear, a whole army of ants will flock to the flower.

Why is it dangerous?

Aphids on an orchid are a parasite that gradually destroys the entire plant. The pest is especially dangerous for the phalaenopsis variety - an aphid that appears on it will most likely completely destroy the flower.

It is necessary to get rid of it because:

It multiplies very quickly and is capable of destroying an entire flower within two days if no measures are taken.
In just a few hours, the aphid sucks out all the vital juices from the flower and the bush dries out.
When the parasite enters the vegetative system, instead of the vital juices of the plant, it leaves a dangerous poison that blocks further access of beneficial substances from the nutritional part of the flower, so additional nutrition will not help in any way to cope with insects and restore the bush.
The spread of poison throughout the flower causes the leaves to become sticky. This attracts insects that can destroy the entire orchid. The mucus traps bacteria and, as a result, the culture turns black, rots, and emits an unpleasant odor.
Even if you manage to get rid of it, it quietly sheds its skin, from which new larvae later appear. It is necessary to treat the plant with a special product.

Please note! Fighting aphids on an orchid is difficult, because it must be done in a timely manner. Lost time can play a decisive role and lead to the death of the flower. Aphids do not eat fruits, but the idea that they are harmless to them is deceptive

Yes, it does not eat flowers directly. By sucking water, minerals, vitamins and microelements from the stems, it deprives the flowers of access to useful substances and the buds die. Among other things, it spreads harmful substances and infects the crop with viruses from other plants. Due to the substances released during the life process, aphids attract insects that eat the flower

Aphids do not eat fruits, but the idea that they are harmless to them is deceptive. Yes, it does not eat flowers directly. By sucking water, minerals, vitamins and microelements from the stems, it deprives the flowers of access to useful substances and the buds die. Among other things, it spreads harmful substances and infects the crop with viruses from other plants. Due to the substances released during the life process, aphids attract insects that eat the flower.

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Reviews from flower growers about means of killing aphids

Dealing with aphids on orchids is not difficult if you choose a product that takes into account the scale of the infestation. The experience of flower growers also confirms this:

“When I returned from vacation, I found my orchids completely covered with green aphids. All the flowers had fallen off, the flower stalks at the tops were directly covered with boogers. There was nothing at hand except milk and iodine. I sprayed it, but only made it worse. The number of insects did not decrease, but the orchids became dirty, all stained. I bought Fitoverm, trimmed the flower stalks, used cotton wool to remove all the aphids I saw from the leaves, and sprayed them. At the same time, I disinfected the window sill. Pests don’t come back” (Karina, Pskov).

What kind of insect is this white and other color?

Aphids are insect pests that parasitize both outdoor and indoor plants. Aphids are small insects that parasitize plants. Eats juice. Belongs to the order Hemiptera. Previously, it was classified as a member of the order Homoptera.

What it looks like: description and photo

The maximum size of the parasite is 8 mm. Houseplants live on species whose size is approximately 0.5 mm. Appearance of aphids:

The translucent body of the parasite has the shape of an ellipse, oval or drop.
The color almost always matches the plant on which the insect parasitizes. There are green, pink, black, red and even transparent individuals.
The head has a trapezoidal shape. It contains antennae consisting of segments. They are the organs of touch and hearing.
The surface of the body is bumpy.
The mouth is a small proboscis. With its help, aphids pierce the leaf and suck out the juice.
There are 3 pairs of legs on the body with which it jumps.
Aphids can be with or without wings. Everything depends on the conditions of existence. Both males and females have wings.

These insects are well organized. Each individual has its own role in the colony.

Below you can see a photo of the pest:

Kinds

There are several thousand species of aphids in nature. Most of them parasitize house plants. But most often you can find these types:

Peach.
Bakhchevaya.
Green

Peach

Has a size of 2 mm. The color of the body changes depending on the plant on which it lives. The eyes are brown-red. The proboscis is straight, cylindrical, measuring 25% of the body. The tail is yellow. The eggs are oval and have a shiny black color.

Bakhchevaya

The size of the melon aphid varies from 1 to 1.9 mm. May be black, green or yellow. Paws and antennae are dark brown. This species forms very dense colonies on flowers.

Green

Green aphids are pale green in color. Has two spouts for sucking out juice. This species lays eggs on shoots. New flower buds eventually become food for the young.

How to identify a pest

Mealybugs are small insects measuring 3-6 mm. Their oval body is covered with a waxy coating. At the back there are plates of varying lengths. The color of insects is white or beige. There are small bristles along the body, and transverse grooves on the back. Pests are mobile at any age, they move around the plant, sink into the substrate, and spread to neighboring indoor flowers. Mealybugs belong to the superfamily Coccidae. They are close relatives of scale insects, another species of insect that parasitizes orchids.

Information. The common name for mealybugs is hairy lice.

In scale insects, sexual differences are clearly expressed. Males have wings but lack mouthparts. Adult males do not feed. After mating, they soon die. Wingless females live in large colonies. They have a long proboscis for piercing the plant and sucking out the juices. Before laying eggs, females create white, cotton-like pouches. On the leaves of plants they look like a coating, which is used to determine the presence of a mealybug on an orchid.

Fertile females produce 3-4 generations of insects per season. The larvae, emerging from the eggs, actively move throughout the plant. They look like light gray fluff. After choosing a convenient place, the larvae stick to the plant and feed on the sap. Soon they molt, and the older individual looks for a new place. Females can lay eggs in a secluded place near a flower, and the larvae find their way to the orchid.

The pest prefers to live and feed in the recesses of leaf axils. Adult females crawl into orchid buds and flowers. With severe damage, the flowers become deformed and a marbled color appears on the leaves. Mealybug weakens the plant, contributing to the appearance of secondary orchid diseases. In addition to sucking out nutritious juices, the pest leaves specific secretions that end up inside the leaves and flowers. The parasite's digestive enzymes slow down the metabolic processes of indoor plants.

What damage does aphids cause?

First, the parasite is located on the leaf blades of the orchid, then it moves to the stems, flowers and buds, since these areas are the most succulent.
Aphids feed on beneficial microelements that the plant needs in order for it to grow normally. Pests multiply extremely quickly and form many colonies that will be located where new leaf blades should grow. When an insect feeds, it releases toxic substances into the orchid, which disrupt the distribution of nutrients and photosynthesis. Areas that are infested with aphids become softer and then may die. If the insect is not controlled, the entire plant may die.

The most common orchid diseases and methods of treating them

Orchid diseases can be associated with various reasons: from improper care to the wrong climate. Most often, leaves and roots suffer from virus infection. Due to a number of diseases, plants may lose the ability to develop buds and continue normal growth. The main question arises - how to save the orchid. We will talk about this further.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is one of the fungal diseases that is characterized by a white coating on the surface of the leaf (sometimes on the buds). Upon contact with the plant, you may feel stickiness and viscosity. If left untreated, the orchid leaves may die and the entire plant may be partially damaged.

The cause of powdery mildew is high humidity and temperature of the room in which the flower is located. Such a climate leads to the greenhouse effect and the development of spores of fungi of the genus Erysiphe and Podosphaera. It is these fungi that cause powdery mildew on an orchid.

You can prevent orchid powdery mildew by ensuring the correct climate in the room where the flower is located.

An existing disease can be cured by spraying the plant with a solution of colloidal sulfur or with Topsin-M and Skor. To prevent the disease, you can use Fitosporin.

Leaf burn

Leaf burns most often occur during periods of increased sun activity: summer and spring. The flower requires diffused sunlight in large quantities. Direct rays are detrimental to the orchid.

Brownish spots on orchid leaves are formed as a result of exposure to sunlight on droplets of liquid concentrated on the surface of the leaf. A severe burn can be identified by the formation of holes in the petals of the plant and torn brownish edges.

You can restore the plant by ensuring its correct location. It is also necessary to replenish the water balance without flooding the roots of the plant, otherwise rot can occur.

If there are only a few damaged areas, you can trim off the leaves with brown spots. In case of a large area of damage, it is recommended to refuse fertilizing and treat the affected areas with Epin.

Anthracnose orchids

Anthracnose is another fungal disease that is characterized by the appearance of brown round spots on the surface of the leaf, which subsequently grow over the entire area. They connect to each other.

Large spots have a blackish tint and form a depression. In the early stages, leaf necrosis may not pose a major threat to the health of the plant, but if the problem is ignored, the leaves may die.
The cause of the disease is stagnant water in the axils of the plant. Liquid accumulates due to improper watering or indoor climate. As a result, the environment becomes favorable for the development of fungus of the genus Colletotrichum. It is this fungus that causes anthracnose in orchids.
Treatment of the disease begins with eliminating the main cause of the disease. Then the areas prone to fungus are eliminated. During the period of treatment of the plant, it is necessary to refrain from applying fertilizers.
The cut areas must be treated with a mixture of activated carbon and ash, and also prevented and treated with preparations containing copper. You need to use this method 3 times with an interval of 10 days. At the stage of treatment and prevention of the disease, it is recommended to regularly ventilate the room in which the plant is kept and maintain a watering regime.

Deformation of orchid leaves

A common cause of leaf deformation is mechanical damage to the plant. As a result, breaks and cracks appear.

In certain cases, deformation occurs as a result of improper watering of the orchid: lack of moisture or decreased temperature. If proper watering and temperature conditions are observed, the orchid leaves are leveled.
The disease is characterized by the appearance of a dark green color in certain areas, thickening of the stems, breaks, cracks and irregular bends of the leaves.
Before resuscitating an orchid, it is necessary to determine the reason why the deformation occurred.
It is better to refuse to apply fertilizers containing nitrogen at first. It is recommended to transplant the plant into another pot, thoroughly washing the roots. Most often, after transplantation, the plant stops growing, which is a normal process.

Bacterial spot of orchid

Bacterial spotting, common among Phalaenopsis orchids, is characterized by an initial change in color from bright green to a yellow tint, followed by darkening and softening of the tissue. Afterwards, the process of formation of ulcers on the petal begins, in which watery liquid accumulates.

There are several assumptions about what causes the process of bacterial spot formation. The reason lies in the creation of an unsuitable climate: excessive watering, incorrect fertilizing, incorrect placement of the plant in the warm season.
Plants can be cured by removing diseased areas of the orchid. All instruments used in the process of cutting out unhealthy petals must be sterile and well sharpened so as not to damage healthy soft tissue.
It is recommended to treat the cut areas with iodine or crushed activated carbon. When the disease spreads over a large area, it is better to use potent fungicides. The plant can be considered completely healthy after 10 days have passed without the appearance of spots.

Fusarium rot of orchids

Fusarium rot is a common phenomenon among orchids. You can identify it by the leaves of the plant - they become more lethargic, curled, and may have a yellowish tint with pink spots.

It is considered the most dangerous for Phalaenopsis, Meltonia and Epidendrum orchids. The main reason for the formation of rot is high humidity in the absence of normal air circulation.

Before starting to treat an orchid disease, it is necessary to ensure the proper climate in the room where the flower is located. Once the requirements have been met, you can begin chemical treatment of the roots. For a week or more, it is necessary to treat the rhizomes with a 0.2% solution of foundationazole.

Brown rot

Brown rot is characterized by the appearance of small, watery spots of a dark shade. Young plants are most susceptible to the disease. If there is no reaction from the grower, the leaves completely darken and begin to curl. Low temperatures and excessive watering speed up the spread of brown rot.

The disease mainly affects species such as Cymbidium, Paphiopedilum, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis. The causes of brown rot on orchids are bacteria of the genus Erwinia, Burkholderia gladioli, Pseudomonas.
If the disease has just begun to take effect, you can cut out the infected areas with a sharp instrument, after first capturing a few millimeters of healthy tissue. It is necessary to treat the sections with special copper-based preparations.
At advanced stages of the disease, infection can be transferred to a neighboring plant. To save flowers, it is necessary to isolate the carrier of the infection from healthy plants. As a preventative measure, it is recommended to use a solution of copper sulfate.

Rust

Rust is a relatively rare disease that affects the leaves of a plant, gradually spreading to nearby areas of the flower. The causative agents of rust are fungi from the genera Puccinia, Uredo, Sphenospora. The fungus grows, forming light areas on the lower part of the plant, after which the process of maturation of fungal spores begins.

The breeding season can be determined by the formation of red pads on top of the white spots. The areas of the orchid that were previously exposed to other diseases or pests are the first to suffer.

The plant can be cured by eliminating infected areas. Before removal, it is necessary to disinfect the instruments, and then treat the cut areas with a 20% alcohol solution and crushed coal. It is possible to use the drugs “Ridomil”, “Skor”, “Mikosan”.

Orchid root rot

Root rot is a common disease of orchids, which is characterized by the appearance of a fungus in the vegetative parts of the plant. This type of rot can be identified by bright pink spots at the sites of possible infections, which actively multiply in a short period of time.

The danger of this disease is that the fungus quickly penetrates deep into the roots, preventing the plant from receiving liquid and beneficial microelements. Fungal infection of the leaves and trunk of the orchid is possible. The pigmentation of damaged tissues changes: a yellow color appears, the fungus causes the petals to wither.

Most often the young plant is damaged. With the active spread of the disease, the complete death of the orchid occurs three weeks after the onset of the disease - the roots of the plant completely die.

To protect neighboring orchids, it is necessary to isolate the diseased plant until the fungus is completely eliminated.

If the affected areas are small, then you need to cut out all the infected roots to healthy tissue, treat them with a fungicide and dry them.

Black rot of the orchid

Black rot spreads throughout the plant through the roots, first infecting the pseudobulbs, and then the leaves and petals of the orchid. The presence of the disease can be determined by hardened pseudobulbs, dark leaf color, lethargy and loss of elasticity.

If black rot is detected on one of the plants, it is recommended to check neighboring orchids, since rot is easily transferred and can destroy many flowers in a short time. Young plants are most susceptible to this disease.
If the roots have rotted, it is almost impossible to revive the orchid. If the plant has died, it is recommended to avoid spraying, since the rot is transferred through water droplets to neighboring flowers.
Adult orchids can be cured by soaking the rhizomes for about half an hour in a solution of preparations containing copper. For use, a solution of copper sulfate 3% is recommended.

White moss (rot)

White moss on the roots of an orchid is a sign of rot. The most common cause of the disease is excessive watering of the plant and failure to maintain a normal indoor climate. To prevent the development of the disease, it is necessary to temporarily reduce the flow of water into the plant and stop applying fertilizer.

To get rid of a disease that has already appeared, it is necessary to eliminate all infected areas, first check neighboring plants for infection, and treat the cut areas with crushed activated carbon. If the rot has spread to most of the orchid, it is recommended to get rid of the flower.

Black spots

The appearance of black dots on orchid leaves can be due to several reasons. To determine the correct treatment, it is necessary to carefully examine the plant.
If black spots are widespread on the stems and leaves of an orchid, this is due to the development of microscopic fungi. They appear against a background of low temperatures and high humidity.
When the spread affects only one part of the plant, it is a bacterial infection. It develops as a result of excessive watering.
To cure blackheads, it is necessary to eliminate the cause of the disease. Throughout the entire course of treatment, it is recommended to treat the surface of the leaves and stem with a 3% solution of copper sulfate.

How to get rid of aphids on an orchid at home

Aphids are one of the most common and dangerous pests. Naturally, the appearance of this uninvited guest is due to improper care of the flower. The voracious insect selectively causes damage and reproduces very quickly.

The pest begins its meal from the stem and leaves until it ends up on the bud and flower. The insect drinks the nutritious juice, and in return injects poison into the plant, leading to disruption of photosynthesis and the outflow of nutrients. The tissues soften, as a result of which individual parts of the orchid first die, and then the plant itself.

In addition, the sweet secret liquid sprayed by aphids attracts entire colonies of ants. Also, the appearance of this liquid on the orchid can result in damage to various bacterial and fungal diseases.

Traditional methods

Aphids are a serious enemy for indoor orchids, and if appropriate measures are not taken in time, the flower can be lost.

As soon as the pest is detected, immediately isolate the orchid from other indoor plants to avoid damage. Rinse the leaves immediately with warm water, and simply remove all flowers and buds.

Traditional methods will bring the greatest effect in the first stages, when pests have been detected.

One such method is treating the plant with a soap solution. To prepare it, you should use dark laundry soap. Grate it and make a solution at the rate of: 1 tbsp. l. soap per 1 liter of water. After the soap is well dissolved in water, the resulting product can be applied to the leaves using a sponge. Instead of soap, dishwashing detergent is suitable.

The leaves are also wiped with citrus infusion, which is infused for three days. To prepare it, take 100 g of lemon, tangerine or orange peels and add 1 liter of water.

Onion infusion is prepared simply: pour chopped onion with water.

Rubbing with solutions containing essential oils of mint and tea tree gives a good effect. However, there are limitations in this case. This product should not be used at temperatures above +25 °C, or if the room has high humidity.

You can also wipe the leaves with rosehip infusion.

When using traditional methods, you first need to remove all affected areas and treat the leaves with prepared solutions.

Biological products and insecticides

If you have used folk remedies and did not get the desired result, then you should switch to “chemistry”. Such preparations are widely available in specialized flower shops. When using, you should strictly follow the instructions.

There are different groups of drugs. There are those that penetrate through the skin or into the mouth of the insect. Some penetrate into the sap of the plant, making it poisonous.

When using such products, precautions should be taken, as toxic substances can cause significant harm to both your health and the health of your pet.

Prevention measures

Everyone knows that it is easier to prevent the invasion of a harmful insect than to fight it later. So let's talk about prevention.

Most often, aphids appear in rooms with dry air, so to prevent the plant from becoming a victim of the pest, the humidity in the room should be maintained at 60%. It is known that this humidity level is beneficial for both plants and humans.

The next equally important preventative measure is proper watering. In order not to provoke the appearance of harmful insects, the accumulation of water between the leaves and in the buds should be avoided.

But here it is important that there is not enough liquid. The best option is to regularly spray the leaf plates with cool water. In this case, root watering should be reduced.

Another important preventive measure is regular observation and inspection of the flower. If you notice the appearance of an enemy, immediately proceed to actions to destroy it

Success lies in immediate action, since the smaller the aphid colony, the greater the likelihood of controlling the pest.

When buying an indoor orchid, you should keep it in quarantine for about 15 days to make sure there are no lesions. During transplantation, be sure to treat instruments with disinfectants.

Have questions and need answers? specialist

Where do white aphids come from on indoor and garden plants and how to fight them? Photo of the pest

Aphids are a representative of the class Hemiptera. The insect attacks indoor flowers by drinking juice from them. Plants weaken, dry out and die.

Pests can choose roots, flowers, leaves, stems. They prefer soft stems that are easier to pierce.

The article describes in detail what the pest looks like and why it appears, what it threatens plants with, as well as how to get rid of such a scourge and what preventive measures to take to protect yourself in the future.

What kind of insect is this and why is it dangerous?

White aphids are easy to recognize if they have settled on an ornamental plant. It has a teardrop-shaped light body, reaching a length of 0.5 cm. The oral apparatus is represented by a proboscis. There are antennae on the head that act as sensors.

Externally, the body shape is drop-shaped. If you look at an individual under a microscope, you can see that its mouthparts consist of a proboscis - with which the aphid pierces the surface of plants (shoots or leaves). The head is equipped with long antennae - it is on them that tactile sensors are located.

Expert advice on preventing aphid infestations

Indeed, you can get rid of aphids quite quickly. However, pests weaken plants and make them susceptible to infections. Therefore, it is very important to take preventive measures to avoid infection:

“The rules of prevention are simply simple. Firstly, you need to observe quarantine - keep new specimens of orchids separately from the general orchidarium for two weeks. Secondly, you need to put mosquito nets on the windows. Thirdly, do not feed or overwater orchids. Fourthly, do not place bouquets of flowers near indoor plants.”

Yu. Lopatina, agronomist, orchid grower with 8 years of experience.

Processing rules

After detecting any type of insect, urgent treatment is necessary. Quarantine the plant.

A sick orchid, as well as all healthy plants, should be treated for preventive purposes in the following way:

Using a cotton pad moistened with water, remove insects from the leaves and trunk of the plant if possible. Transplant the orchid into a fresh substrate, completely clearing the roots of the old one;

ADVICE! To remove the substrate more thoroughly, carefully rinse the roots under running water. Rinse Phalaenopsis and Vanda orchids entirely in the shower.

To prevent rotting of orchids after the water procedure, Vanda should be hung upside down until completely dry, and Phalaenopsis should be blotted with several dry cotton pads on the growing point and axils of the leaves. Leave dry cotton pads in your sinuses for 5 minutes.

Dilute the preparation for treatment according to the instructions. Use only freshly prepared solution. Treat the plant and substrate evenly. Wet the leaves from the outside and inside;
Repeat treatments until the pests are completely gone, but not more often than indicated in the instructions for the product.

Some folk remedies help:

Repel pests;
Slow down their reproduction.

You can use such means for prevention.

To make it easier to remove scale insects from the plant, use rubbing alcohol. They moisten cotton wool or a cotton swab with it and wipe away the accumulation of insects. Remember that some types of orchids are very sensitive to alcohol, so first you need to treat a small area of the leaf and make sure that there is no burn.

A solution based on laundry soap helps against aphids, thrips, and spider mites. It's easy to prepare. Dilute 30 grams of crushed soap in 1 liter of hot water, stir until completely dissolved. The plant is completely cooled and processed.

Tobacco infusion helps against:

Thrips;
Aphids;
Fool.

Take tobacco dust or tobacco leaves, add hot water, the ratio of ingredients is 1:10. The solution is infused for 24 hours.

After this time, it is diluted with water 2 times and the plant is treated. For better viscosity, you can add 40 grams of laundry soap.

An infusion of citrus peels has proven well against:

Mealybug;
Aphids;
Thripsov.

To prepare, take 100 grams of dry or fresh peels and add 1 liter of warm water. The solution is infused for 4 days, excluding exposure to sunlight. To enhance the effect, place dry peels on the surface of the substrate.

ATTENTION! An infusion of onion or garlic peels helps against most pests. Mix 100 grams of garlic peel in 10 liters of water, leave for 24 hours

To prepare onion infusion, you need 150 grams of onion peels.

In addition to the peel, you can use onion pulp. To obtain the mixture, the onion along with the husk is grated or passed through a meat grinder. The resulting slurry is poured with 1 liter of hot water. Leave for 2 days and filter. The resulting infusion is diluted with a liter of water and the plant is treated with it.

Chemical methods of controlling aphids

What to do if the orchid is massively damaged? They resort to chemical treatments because it is not possible to control pests by other means.

There are 3 types of insecticides:

contact impact;
systemic action;
intestinal action.

The difference between them is the way they act on insects. In the first case, the effect occurs through their skin, and in the other two - through the internal systems of the body. It is intestinal and systemic insecticides that are considered the most effective. Their percentage of effectiveness is from 90 to 98% (systemic ones are more effective).

The best drugs for controlling aphids on orchids, according to reviews from flower growers, are:

"Iskra-2";
"Aktara";
"Tanrek."

They are safe for humans, and the solution is prepared according to the attached instructions.

The use of insecticides should be alternated, maintaining intervals of 1.5 - 2 weeks. They should not be used more than three times, as this may cause the aphids to become addicted and reduce their effectiveness. It is necessary to strictly follow the dosage indicated on the packaging of the drug so as not to harm the orchid.